Step 1 Body (assuming you have a Scout II with some rust)

• Purchase fiberglass quarter panels ($380 pr).
• Purchase sheet metal replacement parts as needed (i.e. driver and passenger body mounts $65 from AT Scouts).
• Remove top and install quarter panels.
• Cut out and weld in new sheet metal parts.
• Primer Scout with Black Zinc Chromate (rust inhibitor $100 a gallon).
• Replace Top.

Optional

• Paint Scout (I prefer a polymer paint for its flexibility and ease of rubbing out trail scratches).

Step 2 Front End

• Remove front Axle.
• Tear down Axle.
• Twist front axle for improved caster and reduced drive line angle. (you can purchase this twisted housing from Jim Maulis ($225 no core req.) on my vendors list)
• Install Detroit ($500) or ARB Locker and 4.56 gears ($200).
• Reverse Shackle ($50 misc. steel, $40 for bushing set) the Front Suspension.
• Install 4" lift Springs($550 w/shocks Note: skip the dropped pitman arm)
• Fabricate Binder Bunch increased ground clearance U-Bolt plates ($25 misc. steel) or purchase (Scout Madness$200 set of four) increased ground clearance U-Bolt plates.
• Install reconditioned axle (new bearings, seals, grease, etc..) with new 9/16" dia. U-bolts ($40 for four) and U-Bolt Plates.
• Purchase and Install new front drive shaft with extra long slip yoke ($300) from Gloeco Inc (16" of travel on slip yoke, highly recommended for reverse shackle front end).
• Purchase and install new adjustable front drag link ($125) from Giddum up Scout.
• Install 1969 2wd rear Nissan Bump Stops ($55 pr) (Nissan calls them overload springs. They are large double donuts of rubber. These are way better than the urethane ones. ).
• Pry off the sheet metal cab that is located on top of the axle vent. Purchase 6' of 3/8" fuel line and one small hose clamp ($10). Press the fuel line over the exposed vent and tighten small hose clamp to secure line at axle. Route fuel line to clear exhaust and wire tie to fire wall with one or two small coils in hose Check for proper length when axle is completely un weighted..
• Check brake lines for proper length with axle fully extended .
• Fabricate mounts and install Dual Shocks ($80 pr).

Optional

• Longer Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines. (The 1/2 ton Chevy lines work , but you need to slightly drill out the fitting that holds the line to the Caliper. The Scout caliper brake line bolt is a little larger then the 1/2 ton Chevy)
• 1/8" thick Chrome differential cover (good for the added thickness not the chrome) ($30).

Step 3 Rear End

• Remove rear Axle.
• Build Dana 60 $1200 for Housing, Bearings, Bearing ends, and Axles and add disc brakes ($100 used parts) or TSM sells a kit for Scout II's.
• Measure distance from outside bearing plate to spring perches on dana 44 axle and grind off spring perches on dana 60 axle.
• Install Detroit ($500) or ARB Locker and 4.56 gears ($200) in the Dana 60.
• Redrill Centering pin location on spring so that the axle is centered in the wheel well (usually about 1/2" to 1" from the existing hole towards the rear of the Scout).
• Install 4" lift Springs.($include in front price above)
• Fabricate Binder Bunch increased ground clearance U-Bolt plates ($25 misc. steel) or purchase (Scout Madness$200 set of four) increased ground clearance U-Bolt plates.
• Install dana 60 axle (new bearings, seals, grease, etc..) with new 9/16" dia. U-Bolts ($40 for four) and U-Bolt Plates.
• Snug U-bolts with dana 60 spring perches not welded and set to measured distance on dana 44 axle from outside bearing plate. With the weight on the axle,I usually move the jack stands to the axle tubes and using a bottle jack located just below the yoke I jack until the pinion yoke is pointing so that it is not quite on a direct line to the T-Case (slightly below lined up). Finally tighten U-Bolts and weld perches in place.
• Purchase and Install new thick walled 2 1/2" or 3" dia. Rear drive shaft ($225)with 1/2 ton Chevy P/U front slip yoke.
• Install 1969 2wd rear Nissan Bump Stops ($55 pr) (Nissan calls them overload springs. They are large double donuts of rubber. These are way better than the urethane ones. ).
• Check brake lines for proper length with axle fully extended .
• Pry off the sheet metal cab that is located on top of the axle vent. Purchase 6' of 3/8" fuel line and one small hose clamp ($10). Press the fuel line over the exposed vent and tighten small hose clamp to secure line at axle. Route fuel line to clear exhaust and any other obstacles, remove rear taillight and wire tie to rear taillight wiring near bulb (leave 6" pointing down from taillight). Check for proper length when axle is completely un weighted.

Optional

• Dual Shocks.
• 1"-2" longer shackles depending on how the front end sits relative to the rear ( I prefer the rear end to be slightly higher so that when I am loaded down with camping gear, gas,and kids it is level)Scout Madness sells these ($40 pr for rear).
• Longer Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines. (The 1/2 ton Chevy lines work , but you need to slightly drill out the fitting that holds the line to the Caliper. The Scout caliper brake line bolt is a little larger then the 1/2 ton Chevy).
• 1/8" thick Chrome differential cover (good for the added thickness not the chrome) ($30).

Step 4 Engine, Transmission , Transfer case, and clutch

• 345 or 392 motor.
• T-19 wide ration transmission.
• Dana 300 Transfer case ($500+ used). If you shop around you might find a better price (There is a rumor floating around that a couple of the Binder Bunch members are working on an adapter for the Jeep Dana 300 to bolt up to the Scout T-18 / T-19 4spd Transmission. I will keep you posted).
• Twin stick shifter($50 used jeep or old scout shifters and a new twin stick boot) for running around in 2wd low range off road. (Once you put the Detroit locker in the rear end you will be pleasantly surprised by the amount of 2-wheeling you can do off-road.)
• 12" Borg - Beck Clutch ($230).

Optional

• Tachometer for engine ($100).
• Headers from Stan's ($230 painted) for your IH motor.
• (3) core radiator($425 new).

Step 5 Body Lift

• I recommend a 1 1/2" body lift (I usually purchase a 2 1/4" dia. x 24" long piece of machinable nylon rod $40 from the local plastic warehouse and cut it into 1 1/2" spacers) with 35"/36" tires. You will need to purchase grade 8 bolts ($10) that are 1 1/2" longer than the factory bolts.
• Cut fan shroud in 1/2. Fabricate 18 - 22 gage sheet metal ($5) pieces that can be pop rivited over the 1 1/2" gap that the two half need to be separated (Yes, we now have an oval fan shroud opening, but it still works fine). Bolt the top half to the radiator like factory. The bottom will require fabricated brackets ( 1" wide x 1/8" thick steel strap $5 cut to appropriate length with two 1/4" dia holes 1 1/2" apart).
• Lengthen clutch rod 1 1/2" by welding a 1 1/2" long x 3/8" dia. rod ($1) in the center of the clutch rod (the threads are on either end so the center is the best place to lengthen the rod)
• The steering column is the tough part of this whole conversion. I am not sure what the best solution for this is! Personally, on my Scout, I cut the shaft off where it comes out of the steering column and welded on a pto u-joint. Then I remover the rag joint. Cut the splined part out of the rag joint and welded this to a second PTO joint. Then I connected the two PTO joints with a "steel" keyed shaft. For safety sake I spot welded the steel keys in the joints. Then I drilled a slight counter sink in the keyed shaft where the set screws seated. I then used Red Lock-tite to install these set screw ($90). REMEMBER: THIS IS YOUR STEERING AND ANY MODIFICATIONS YOU MAKE MUST BE SAFE AND CORRECT THE FIRST TIME!!!!

Step 6 Interior and off-road gear.

• Purchase and Install a roll bar ($200).
• Purchase and Install a Fire Extinguisher ($20).
• Purchase 3/8" links x 10' long Logging Chain ($125 in Warn kit).
• Purchase Tree protector strap ($ in Warn kit).
• Purchase Snatch block ($in Warn kit).
• Purchase 3" tow strap ($45) (from experience the 2" strap does not hold up to the wear and tear).
• 2- ton bottle jack ($25).
• Star wrench for wheels ($15).
• 40 channel CB with no more then a 4' antenna ($125)( see pictures of my Scout for mounting Ideas). Whip antenna 's are dangerous off-road.

Optional

• (3) piece weld together roll cage from Dick Cepek ($200). (Hint: I recommend extending the front feet of the roll cage by welding a 4"x4" x1/4" thick piece of steel to the feet so that the front bodymount bolt can go through the feet.).
• Roll bar padding.
• New Seats with side support.

Step 7 Misc. Items

• Beef up the frame ($25 misc. steel) at the Steering box and front driver and passenger body mounts.
• Dual Optima Batteries wired in parallel ($260 pr).
• 85 amp or higher alternator ($65).
• Boosted power steering ($1)pump (you will need it with the locker in the front) and Transmission cooler for power steering ($30).
• My two favorite tires are T/A Mudders($520 set of four) (Best for mud and rock) and Dick Cepek Fun Country's (Best for snow and rock).
• Steel 10" wide wheels ($320 for set of four)(Aluminum work, but you will scratch them up 4-wheeling and the beads tend to come off easier when airing down.).
• Purchase and Install an electric Warn Winch (#10,000 $900 or #8000 $600) and bumper ($300). Install hooks ($20) for tow strap.

Optional

• Purchase and Install new high output head lights from JC Whitney. Purchase a 12V headlight relay (the factory wiring is not adequate) and H-4 bulbs ($50).
• Transmission cooler for power steering ($30).
• 33 gallon replacement gas tank ($320)(Giddum up Scout sells these).
• Electric fuel pump at tank ($45).
• Fabricate a new solid steel rear bumper (The Scout II bumpers suck!)