About 15 Years ago I was hanging out at my local 4x4 shop talking about how ever since I went to these giant 33” tires (OK! OK! they seemed big back then) my Scout wanders all over the road. The mechanic and I started talking about how the Scout has almost no caster from the factory and if we could change that then we would resolve the wandering problem. After studying my front axle housing we observed that the front knuckle assemblies that the ball joints bolt through are pressed onto the axle tubes and welded in the proper factory position. Idea! What if I built a jig to support the axle housing, ground out the factory welds (see pictures) and twisted the front axle assembly. It worked! Idea #2! Why don&t I put extra twist into the axle (add caster) and then install steel shims to take out some of the extra caster thereby decreasing the front drive shaft angle! Excellent! Well below are the steps involved in twisting your front axle along with some pictures of the jig I built.

Step (1) : Remove the axle from your Scout. you can leave the brake calipers on the Scout.

Step (2) : Strip the housing completely except for the differential. Including axles and removing the spindle assembly at the ball joints. NOTE: I designed my jig (see pictures) with spare front axle pieces welded to the jig so that when I twist the housing all I do is bolt it into the jig with the ball joints.

Step (3) : Clamp the axle in a vise or set it on the ground so that you can get to the weld where the knuckle is pressed onto the axle. You will need to grind out enough of the weld so that you can see a crack between the axle tube and the knuckle. The axle tube is approximately 3/8” thick so you can grind into it quite a bit since you will fill this back in with weld after you twist the housing. HINT: after you start grinding spray WD-40 on the backside of the knuckle where it meet the tube. The WD-40 shall migrate along the tube towards the heat from the grinding, showing the crack more clearly. You must see the crack all the way around before you can attempt to twist the axle in the jig.

Step (4) : Install the axle in the jig tightening the ball joint nuts. Take a small chisel and mark (strike) the axle across the crack you revealed by grinding. Once you begin twisting the axle you will measure the distance between the two halves of the mark you made. You will need to purchase a magnetic level gage. Mount this level gage on the machined face of the axle housing where the differential cover mounts. Write down this reading. You shall twist the axle approximately 18 degrees. This usually translates to 7/16 of an inch between marks.

Step (5) : You are now ready to start twisting the axle. You must first use your U-bolts to secure two 2” square tubing (1/4” thick) x 3& where the leaf springs mount to the axle. (see pictures). Mount two 12 ton bottle jacks so that they can jack on the ends of the tubing. Begin to preload the axle by jacking both side evenly. Once you have pressure on the axle try hitting the knuckle with a 2 1/2 LB hammer to break the ground out weld loose. Usually you need to jack a little, hit the knuckles with the hammer, jack a little, hit the knuckles with the hammer, until you hear a large POP! Once you break loose both side it will twist easier with the jacks. You shall need to shim the bottle jacks periodically when you run out of travel on the jacks. Measure both the angle and the distance between marks throughout this process. You need to end up with a angle difference of approximately 18 degrees from your starting point. Again, This usually translates to 7/16 of an inch between marks.

Step (6): Remove the axle from the jig and weld up the ground out crack. I highly recommend that you have a certified welder do this part of the job and ask that he puts a minimum of three passes on the crack.

Step (7): Purchase two steel 6 degree angle shims from your local spring shop. Place the two shims on the differential side (passenger side) spring perch one on top of the other. With the thick ends towards the front of the axle (towards the tie rod). Weld these shims in place (the shims shall take out 12 degrees of the 18 degrees of positive caster you put into the axle, reducing the drive shaft angle). Cut the spring perch off the driver side of the axle. Set the axle between two jack stands and place a level on the weld shims on the passenger side of the axle. Adjust the axle so that the level bubble is centered. Now weld the driver side spring perch back in the same position that you cut it off only rotated slightly so that it is level with the passenger spring perch. Again I recommend that you use a certified welder for this part of the job.

Step (8): Reassemble the axle and install in the Scout. Note: usually it is not necessary to shorten the front drive shaft but you will need to check this! Your done!

Now that wasn&t so bad was it? Well if you still have questions feel free to e-mail me. Now if it all still seems like more work then you want to do my partner Jim Maulis jr (senior is on my parts vendors list) will twist an axle housing for a reasonable fee!