The reasons behind Fiberglass Quarter Panels (hereafter "FQ's") are obvious: whose Scout does not bear the trademark rust through above the rear wheel wells? Mud and moisture get trapped between the outer surface of the inner wheel well and the Quarter panel skin, and thus the cancer begins. Step one of the rehab is cutting off the rotten material. ( I'll assume that the top has already been removed)

REMOVAL OF STEEL PANELS
Begin by drilling out the spot welds along the door post, along the bottom edge forward of the wheel well, and at the seam where the Quarter Panel meets the tailgate. Usually these welds are visible enough, but gentle lifting pressure under the folded edge with a screwdriver or chisel will make them impossible to miss. You needn't drill all the way through both layers; just enough to pop the weld is adequate.

The rusted arc of the wheel well itself is usually pretty mangled, so just separate the inner from the outer as best you can. Tin snips are in order here, as are gloves to protect against sharp edges.

We've found that the best place to cut along the top edge is approximately 1/2” down from the crease or shoulder which separates the flat top surface from the curved side skin. Cut as straight as possible along a line 1/2” down from that shoulder, all the way from the door post to the tailgate.

Once the skin is removed, be sure to remove the entire outer piece of the wheel well itself -- again by drilling out the spot welds which join the two pieces. The replacement FQ's will come with an additional piece to replace what you removed.

PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION
Remove the trim strip along the top of the quarter panel which is held in place by five countersunk screws. Many club members have had replacement trim strips fabricated which are slightly wider (1/8"-3/16") channel, since this channel will cover and retain the top edge of the FQ.

Remove the entire top surface rearward of the seam at the very back corner. This part is included on the FQ. The top and rear edges of the flat sheetmetal (left protruding rearward at the tailgate joint) must be ground to allow for the extra thickness of the fiberglass over the original steel. Otherwise, the FQ is pulled to far rearward for a proper fit. Lastly, some grinding to remove rust build up at the bottom of the door post is usually required in order to get a nice fit at the door seam. Coat as much of the exposed surfaces with a rust neutralizing paint (zinc chromate) as possible. Hopefully you will never see this part of the truck again -- best to get it now.

Now is also the time to cut the hole in the drivers side FQ for the gas tank filler neck. Be aware that we've encountered two different size holes (and corresponding gaskets). Do not simply cut where the mold marks indicate! You might end up with an overly large hole and have to locate the other gasket.

INSTALLATION

Position the rear corner of the FQ over the protruding panel at the tailgate joint. With the mounting lip properly hooked over that panel, bring the forward edge in toward the door post and pop in place. Several trial fits are usually required for proper alignment. Drill and pop-rivet along the door post and tailgate edges only. The top lip will be held in place and concealed by the trim strip. The supplemental piece to reconstruct the outer portion of the wheel well itself is installed last. If everything else was done properly, it should exactly fill the gap between the underside of the remaining wheel well and the turned-under edge of the new quarter panel. Paint, replacing the top trim strip, cutting holes for the marker lights and replacement of any trim pieces or emblems are the obvious finishing touches.

SOURCES FOR QUARTER PANELS

Ken-Trol, Inc.

Howteron Products