With the gear
sets in the second part of the puzzle is the shift forks and
shafts. You must have your trusty manual to refer to in order to
make sure you have the forks in the right position!
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These two forks go on the longer shaft toward
the rear of the engine.
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Position the assembled forks and shafts
with the forks riding in their proper position on the slider gears.
DO NOT slide the shafts into their mounting holes yet, rather rest
them on the edge away from the bearing you see in the
center. |
Slip the
thick washer on the end of the shift drum and drop it in it's
bearing. Slide the shift fork shafts into position with the detent
arm roller resting in the smallest and highest position (neutral).
And the shift fork pins in the grooves in the drums. Attach the
detent spring as shown. |
NOTE: Take your time
during these steps, again it's easier than most people think. But
if you miss a step you could do some serious damage to some very
expensive parts.
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Properly installed detent arm
and spring.
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Properly installed shift drum and
forks. |
Properly installed dezert
babes. |
With the transmission installed we are
ready for the crank that has been on ice in Mom's freezer since
yesterday getting nice and shrunk up to slide right into place...
Mechanics Foreplay!
Now it's
time to slap this beast together! |
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Carefully lay a 1/8" bead of high temp silicon
RTV on all the mating surfaces of the RIGHT side case.
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Pull the freshly iced crank from Mom's
deep freeze.
Moron Disclaimer: Avoid the urge to stick your tongue on
it. |
With a couple
of wood blocks underneath for support and to keep the ends of the
shafts off the work bench the frozen crank will slip right
in.. |
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Gently line up the bearings with the shafts
starting with the input shaft, then the crankshaft and finally the
counter shaft. take EXTRA care here so you don't trash your bead of
silicon. It should slip down over the frozen crank with little more
than a few taps with a nylon mallet.
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Place all the case screws in their
holes. They should all stick up about 1/2" If they don't you
screwed up. (Note: The two Phillips head screws hold the balancer
seal retainer and must be tighten with your hand impact driver).
Tighten the screws working out from the
center. |
After the
crankcase is together wipe the excess silicon spoogey from the
outside. To get to spoogey from inside the crankcase stick the
corner of a clean shop rag under the rod end and rotate the crank
halfway, repeat for the other side. |
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If you remember that nifty trick to keep the
spring loaded goodies in the shifter pawl from exploding... Take
the assembly, put it over the end of the shift drum and push,
voila! It will all slide neatly into place without a fuss.
Note: These little doodads WILL explode! Be careful!
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Pawl properly installed. After the
retainers are screwed down install the shift drum bolt and washer
from the left side and carefully screw the access cover in. The
cover is sealed by an "O" ring and does not have to be installed
with much torque. |
A little blue Loc-Tite on the retainer screws. Then set
them with your trusty hand impact driver. |
With the all the case screws set, now
is when I generally prefer to put the engine in the frame. It's
easier to handle without all the heavy gears etc. Also with the
motor mounted securely it's far easier to tighten the large
fasteners on the ends of the shafts.
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