Lo! A canoe! Closer inspection reveals a fiberglass hull with weeds growing up through the holes, but an otherwise intact, evidently abandoned canoe. For free. A few fiberglass patches, and this could be a decent craft! But alas, there's no way to take it home! How does one carry a 16' canoe on a convertible Amigo without a roof rack? Simple.
Having logged the GPS waypoint for the remote spot, my wife and I headed back to town. The next day, we purchased some 1x2 box iron, some threaded steel rod, and some nuts and tie-down straps. Then we set off to find the canoe again, and quickly located it. Breaking out the Makita 4" electric disk grinder with a cutting wheel on it, I began cutting the box iron to make crossmembers and supports. Once that was completed, it was a simple task of arc welding the pieces together, bolting them to the winch mount and roll bar, and loading up the canoe.
The rack I built in the Montana wilderness is the same one I use today to get my canoe to and from the water on my Amigo. How, you say, did I use a disk grinder out in the middle of the Montana wilderness? How did I manage to weld out there? Why, the Premier Power Welder, of course!
Parts
Shown above is the blue control box. At upper left is the vernier
throttle control cable, which enables very fine control of engine
speed. The curved plastic at the bottom of the picture is the cover
for a fuse/relay box that I added for all my gadgets. Attached to the
left of the control box is a continuous duty solenoid that connects
the Premier to its circuits when the key is on.
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You see, the Premier unit combines a control unit
with a 115VDC outlet, hookups for welding cables or jumper cables, a potent
alternator, welding cables, and a vernier throttle control cable. You can get
the alternator in sizes ranging from 160 to 220 amp output. This is more than
enough to power most peoples' stereos, lights, and automobile television sets
(wouldn't want to miss that last episode of Seinfeld!) all at once. The only
catch is that you won't be able to operate the TV off the 115V outlet, since
it's DC. But almost anything without transformers is fair game: coffee makers
(non-digital), hot plates, toaster ovens. And power tools like the Makita disk
grinder operate even more smoothly than normal on this Premier juice. The
company provides a list of devices that will operate on their power, including a
Craftsman 1.5HP compressor that works remarkably well.
You'll need a drill and bits to mount the control box, wrenches
to mount the new alternator, some duck tape, and fingernail clippers (if you're
a guitar player... see, you need those nails on your right hand for
fingerpicking, and they need to be smooth and a little long, so when you start
wrenching... oh, never mind).
Installation is simple, as Premier sends everything you need. Essentially,
there's not much more to it than replacing your existing alternator, finding a
place to put the control unit, and wiring it together. It helps if you know how
to solder, since some of the wires that Premier sends are a bit long... you can
clean up the installation by cutting them to length. The only thing left is
placing the throttle control cable where you want it. It is tempting to put it
in the cab, where you can use it as a throttle control for difficult trails. But
this is what controls the output for the welder, so you'll want it close to
where the control box is, with its voltmeter. I put my cable in the engine compartment, right next to the Premier control
box. Adjusting the welding voltage is easy: throw some switches, watch the
voltmeter on the control box, and turn the cable control until the voltage is
within recommended specs. And no, you don't end up revving your engine very
high. For my own rig, I decided to make a completely separate electrical system.
The new Premier alternator powers all major lights, the electric fan, the winch,
and anything else that requires lots of current. The stock alternator is moved
to a higher location, but powers everything else. Each system charges its own
battery. This redundancy makes me feel a little more secure when I venture into
the deep wilds. I also made a pair of LED bargraph voltmeters for my dash, which
helps me keep an eye on the state of my twin electrical systems. Whenever I
switch on a set of high-power off-road lights or some other large-current-draw
device, you can see a momentary blip on the Premier's bargraph as the voltage
drops below 14.5 volts. But that's all... as soon as the regulator senses the
voltage drop, it signals the alternator to pump out more. No problem running all
those accessories, the big stereo, and so forth. For my '90 Amigo, the 170-amp
alternator would be the largest that would fit in the stock location. Is that
enough juice to weld heavy-gauge metal?
"No problem," said Pat Gremillion, Premier's owner. The Premier's
output is high-frequency DC, which has a number of advantages. For welding, the
high frequency DC agitates the weld puddle at around 7000Hz, making the welds
penetrate much better than a standard arc welder set at a comparable current and
bringing more of the impurities to the surface where they can be chipped away. It also makes it so that it's much easier to start and maintain a good bead.
My wife had never welded anything before. Her first three attempts to strike an
arc resulted in sticking, and a few tries later she was getting a bead
that?well, okay. It wasn't great, but for anyone to be able to get a bead his
or her first time on an arc welder is adequate testimonial to the ease with
which the welder does its magic. For those of you who prefer heliarc or TIG
welding, the Premier unit can supply power to those, too. But you may be amazed
at what you can do with simple, cheap welding rod. More high-frequency magic: Premier sent me a set of welding leads that are
25' long, but they were #4 wires. This seemed pretty thin to me. When I asked, I
was assured that, due to the high frequency, you can use this relatively light
wire for up to 500' without much loss of heat at the arc. Cool! 'Course I can't
afford the 500' leads, copper being as expensive as it is. Besides, where would
I keep them? Anyway, the 25' leads are long enough for virtually anything and
they are easy to carry because of their small size and suppleness.
Now for the bad: I'm a Human Factors Engineer. (No! That's not the bad!) What
that means is that I'm trained to look for problems in usability, particularly
with computers, software, and controls. How does that relate? Well, my one and
only complaint about the Premier unit is that the layout of controls is not
conducive to ease of use. There are three switches: one for the 110V outlet, one
for the "Master" on switch, and one to control high/low charge or weld
levels. The latter of these switches is located on a different face of the box
than the other two are, so it's not easy to see what state all the switches are
in at a glance. There is also a particular sequence of switchings that you are
supposed to do for a particular task, and that sequence is supposed to be
reversed when you finish. That, too, is made more difficult by the switch
arrangement. Still, this is a minor complaint, and it's easy to get used to.
Furthermore, the Gremillions tell me that they are now in a position to have
more production control, and that they will finally be able to address this
issue.
The customer service that Premier gives is first rate. Considering the
quality of the components, the results of my wife's and my own welding efforts,
and the utility of having such a versatile tool at your disposal underneath the
hood, the Premier Power Welder is well worth the investment. You won't regret
getting one, and it may just save your butt... or get you a free canoe!
The makers of the Premier Power Welder also produce the Pull-Pal Winch
Anchor. Click here to see the Off-Road.com Pull-Pal
Winch Anchor Review.
Tools
Installation
Testing
The same high-frequency DC makes for interesting jump-starts. If you find
someone with a dead battery, just hook up the welding cable positive to their
battery positive (Premier supplies a battery clamp just for this), hook up
somewhere on their chassis, and let your vehicle idle for two minutes. In that
time, the high-frequency DC charges their battery to nearly full strength, so
that they start their own vehicle after you've disconnected. Neat! And, when
jump-starts are done this way, there is no danger to either vehicle's ECM
(computer).
Conclusions
P.O. Box 639, Carbondale, CO 81623
(800) 541-1817
tech/phone/fax (970)-963-8875