The conversion itself is relatively easy and requires minimum fabrication. Most of the Binder Bunch members opted for an early 70?s style Cadillac (front and rear disc brakes) Hydra Boost. The advantage to these models is that it has large reservoirs front and rear. If you get too new of a Hydra Boost then you get the o-ring style fitting on the high pressure hoses and you will need to change the ends going to your pump and steering box. The one I choose for my Scout was off a 74 Cadillac Elderado. This particular model has a large spring (silver tube) on the side of the Hydra Boost which allows you one assisted push on the brake pedal if the engine dies.

The First step is to remove the old power brake booster and master cylinder. Remove the lines on the master cylinder and unbolt the power booster from the firewall (4 bolts). You will need to remove the arm from the brake pedal inside the Scout.

Step Two starts with the Cadillac booster you got from the junk yard. Remove the large nut that holds the Cadillac?s mounting bracket to the Hydra Boost. This nut shall be used to hold the new bracket (that you will fabricate) on the Hydra Boost.

Step Three involves some fabrication. My cutting torch was out of gas so I used a saws-all to cut out my Hydra Boost mounting plate from a plate of 1/4? steel. The plate is approximately W:5? X H:4 1/2?. The custom mounting plate is then drilled for the (4) mounting holes that held the original power brake booster. I bolted the custom mounting plate up to the firewall and marked the center hole. You need to drill this hole out with a hole saw the same size as the old hole in the old Cadillac mount. After you have drilled out the hole in the custom mounting plate bolt the Hydra Boost to the Mounting plate with the same nut that held on the old bracket. Note: This nut should be installed with locktite on the threads and tightened to the point that you are sure it won?t ever loosen up (very tight). I had to enlarge my opening in the firewall with a hole saw (I think it was a 2 1/8? hole saw?)so that the nut did not hit when I bolted up the Hydra Boost. The hole on the rod that hooks up to the brake pedal was a little too small and needed to be drilled out to fit the Scout brake pedal. The rod needs to be secured with the same washer and cotter pin that was removed from the Scout brake rod. You will need to adjust your brake switch so that the brake pedal is up far enough to let the Hydra Boost rod come all the way out. Note: This is an important adjustment because if you do not adjust for full travel on the Hydra Boost rod you will cause the brakes to drag. See pictures below!

Step Four requires some plumbing work. I had to swap the fittings on the ends of my master cylinder brake lines so that they would match the Cadillac master cylinder. Note: When flaring brake lines always use a double flaring tool. Make sure that the brake lines have some stretch in them (usually a coil is used in the brake line) for body flexing.

Step Five requires you to hook up the power steering line to the Hydra Boost. I used the original high pressure lines that came with the Cadillac Hydra Boost . One High pressure line runs from the Power Steering pump to the Hydra Boost. The other line runs from the Hydra Boost to the Steering Box. Finally you will need to Tee into your return line for the power steering pump and run a lower pressure hose (the ones with the hose clamps) to the Hydra Boost. It sounds confusing but the fittings are two different sizes on the Pressure lines and can?t be mixed up.

The Last step is to bleed the brakes. You will probably need to spend some time getting all the air out of the system. I usually need to fill the master cylinder twice before I get all the air out.

You are ready for a test drive! Watch out! You now have some for REAL power brakes. Don?t go through the windshield.

P.S. Don?t forget to block off the old power brake vacuum line.