If, like most of us, you've removed the factory mounting ends from the bumper tube on your Samurai to clear larger tires (or if you plan to do so), you may want to modify your installation of an ARB Bull Bar Bumper to create a stronger assembly. Thanks to Gary Munck at Petroworks Off-Road Products, here's how to get a much-improved installation.
Tools and parts
| Socket drivers | 10mm and 14mm sockets |
| Grinder or cut-off tool | Socket driver extensions |
| Phillips screwdriver | 1"" round bar stock, drilled to clear the bumper mounting bolts |
| Welder | 1?"" schedule 40 pipe |
| Drill | Drill bits |
| Reciprocating saw | Metal cutting recipro saw blades |
| Hammer | Wire brush |
| Paint | Cutting disks |
Preparation
Unplug, unscrew and remove the factory turn signals from the factory bumper. Set these aside for later.
Remove the factory bumper. There are bolts at the ends of the bumper tube and through each frame end.
Use the reciprocating saw to cut the ends from the bumper mounting tube as required to clear your tires. On my rig, I cut the tube 3/4"" out from the edge of the bracket that holds the cable tie for the turn signal.
Drill some 1/2"" holes in the bumper mounting tube between the frame ends. You'll only need to make three to five holes, spaced evenly along its length, and at various points around the circumference.
Measure the distance between the ends of the bumper tube, and cut the schedule 40 pipe to be 1 inch longer.
Insert the schedule 40 pipe in the bumper tube. It's going to be a tight fit, so it may take some persuading with a hammer. You should end up with about 1/2"" protruding from the bumper tube on either end.
Measure the distance inside the frame ends at the points where the upper mounting bolts for the bumper pass through the frame. These two measurements will determine the length of the pieces of 1"" round bar stock you'll be cutting to reinforce the upper mounting points in the frame ends.
For the lower mounting points, measure as above, then subtract the thickness of the ARB lower mounting bracket. This portion of the mounting bracket fits inside the frame ends. Cut the 1"" round stock for the lower reinforcements.
Drill the four reinforcement pieces on center through their length as required to clear the bumper mounting bolts.
Unpack your bumper and grab your cut-off tool or grinder. Cut off the outboard-most mounting brackets on each end of the
bumper where it would have attached to your now non-existent bumper tube ends. Grind these points flat and smooth.
Clean and grind or wire brush where required to prep for welding.
If you're going to mount a winch, now is the time to prep for it as well.
Position your fairlead to mark holes where the mounting bolts from the winch will pass through it, then drill the holes in the fairlead.
Depending on which winch model you have, you may need to reposition the ends of your winch to get the clutch lever to properly line up with the hole cut in the top of the bumper and to provide clearance for the power cables. Test fit the winch and realign the ends of the winch as required.
If you're going to mount your winch control on the bumper, fab up a t-shaped mounting bracket for it. Drill holes in the top of the bumper as required for the control bracket.
Caution: Be sure to position any mounting holes with the location of the winch in mind. You don't want to interfere with the winch or the cable in any way.
If you plan to install it, determine a mounting location for the front license plate bracket and drill mounting holes in the bumper as required.
Paint all the exposed metal, except where you'll be making welds, and allow it to dry.
Assembly
Fire up your welder and weld the following:
The circumference of each end of the bumper tube to the schedule 40 pipe
- The holes in the bumper tube to the inserted schedule 40 pipe
- The upper reinforcing pieces to the top, inboard and outboard portions of each frame end (using the upper bolts or some rod to properly position the bar stock to line up with the mounting holes in the frame ends)
The lower reinforcing pieces to the inboard side and bottom of each frame end (again, using some rod or the lower mounting bolts to ensure the pieces are properly positioned).
Caution: Double-check the position of the reinforcement pieces and the clearances for the bumper brackets before welding the bottom reinforcing pieces in place, if it's wrong you'll be one really unhappy camper!
After the welds cool, clean and paint the welds and other exposed metal.
If you chose a center location for the control box, mount your winch control box bracket to the bumper now, as the winch will likely be in the way once it's installed.
Mount your winch in the bumper. You can install the fairlead after the bumper has been mounted.
Get a couple of friends to help, and lift the bumper into place. Assuming all has gone well, the bumper brackets should slip into place quite easily on the frame ends.
Have your friends maneuver the bumper as necessary, and slip the mounting bolts through the frame ends and bumper brackets. The angled heads will only line up properly when they're in the correct holes in the frame ends, and the head-ends of the bolts go on the outboard side.
Once you've got all the bolts in and nuts threaded on, double-check the bumper position and torque down the bolts.
Mount your fairlead on the bumper.
Mount your winch control box to the bracket.
If you're using it, mount the license plate bracket and your plate.
Reinstall the factory turn signals in the cutouts in the ARB. You'll probably need new bolts, washers and nuts to do this, as the factory screws will pass right through the mounting holes in the Bull Bar.
Run your turn signal wires through the tie-points on the frame and plug them back in.
Route your winch power and control leads and connect them up.
That's it! You should be able to pull stumps with this <grin>.
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