Here's how, and thanks to Jeff Umsted for the tip!

Tools and materials

Heat gun Plastic putty knife Rags Xylene

Removing the stainless trim

Set your heat gun on its "Low" setting. On mine that's 500?F.

Pick a spot to start near one edge of the stainless, and move the tip of the gun in to about an inch from the surface. The trick here is to warm up the stainless without getting the paint around it hot and soft, or worse, blistering the paint.

Wiggle the end of your plastic putty knife (chosen so as to try to not scratch up the paint) under the warmed edge of the stainless and lift the handle of the knife to free the stainless from the body.

You should be able to move the heat gun a few inches at a time from this point on, following along behind it with the putty knife, and lifting the stainless from the body. It should take very little effort to release the stainless if you've got the adhesive properly softened up. You won't even bend or kink the stainless. At left you can see what remains after it's off.

Removing the adhesive

Move the gun back to about 1?" from the surface, still set on "Low".

Use your plastic putty knife to move along behind the gun and strip off the majority of the thick rubbery adhesive gunk as it softens. Scrape off the knife often, otherwise the stuff will smear all over the place.

Removing the residue

I soaked a rag in Xylene and by turning the rag often and applying a little elbow grease, the residue (like in the picture on the left) came off pretty easily. The Xylene shouldn't soften or damage factory paint.

Now? if only I could figure how to get back the 10 MPH added to the top end those go-fasters were giving me?

Thanks to my neighbor Larry Johnson for lending me his daughters Krystle (12) and Kaitlyn (8). Girls, thanks for posing the heat gun for me!