The E-Z Locker from Tractech is one of the more
popular upgrades many off-roaders use to increase their trail
performance. While some may say that this method of automatic
locking differential isn't as strong as using a Detroit locker or
ARB, the price and performance put it right in line with many
modest weekend Cherokee owners. The installation process is rather
simple. The locker is composed of 6 main pieces and then an
assortment of springs and pins. The install can be done by anyone
with reasonable mechanical experience in an hour or so. I had never
done any differential work before so it was a learning process, but
I can say I've done it and it didn't take me all that long. We'll
be installing the Ez-locker in our Dana 35c that's under our '88
XJ.
(NOTE: this installation is in a non c-clip axle...c-clip installations will vary slightly refer to the manufacture's instructions)
The E-Z
Locker as compared with lockers like the Detroit, do not require
resetting the gears. It uses the factory carrier that houses the
spider gears. The work can also be done entirely in the truck. (At
least for the Dana 35c application) The first Step is to remove the
differential cover. Unbolt all of the cover bolts and then
carefully tap the cover sideways with a soft mallet. Prying gently
on the lip of the cover can also be used but be careful not to
gouge the housing or cover. As the cover becomes loose the
deferential oil will begin to drain out of the bottom, so be ready
with a catch pan.
When the oil is finished
draining it's a good idea to take a clean rag and wipe out some of
the remaining oil laying in the bottom of the housing. The cleaner
the better, as it will help the new oil last longer.
The next step is to jack up the rear
axle slightly to get the tires off the ground. Remove the right
rear tire, and the brake drum. Installing the locker will require
slight removal of the right side axle shaft. This is easily
accomplished by unbolting the 4 nuts that hold the axle bearing in
the housing.
You'll notice a hole in the
wheel mounting flange that allows easy access the nuts that need to
be removed. Once these nuts come off you can use a slide hammer to
pull the axle loose or slight tapping on the rim of the axle flange
while pulling with your hand will get the bearing loose and allow
you to pull the axle out some. There is no need to pull the axle
then entire way out of the shaft. Pulling it out approx. 4" will be
plenty.
With the front wheels blocked up put the transmission
in neutral to allow you to turn the carrier to get it oriented the
way you need it. The next big step is removing the cross pin and
spider gears. To remove the cross-pin you will need to remove the
lock-pin that hold the pin in the carrier. To get access to the
lock-pin you'll need to remove the left bearing cap and insert a
long thin screw driver or other appropriate tool and hammer the pin
out. As the pin comes almost all the way out it will hit the right
bearing cap. Now remove the right bearing cap, and tap the pin the
rest of the way out. Removing the right bearing cap after the pin
is most of the way out will help hold the carrier in the housing as
you tap the pin out. Be careful as once both bearing caps are no
longer installed the carrier will want to fall out of the
housing.
Now you can remove the spider
gears. Installing the locker parts are easy, and unfortunately I
got so excited to get it in that I forgot to take more pictures.
But the manufacturers directions have included photos that will
help you with the install. Install the side gears in either side of
the carrier. Then install the steel pins in the elongated holes.
Make sure you put them in the elongated holes for installation,
even though they don't go there when installation is completed.
You'll never be able to get the center halves in with out them in
the elongated holes (don't ask me how I know). 
Then use a
light coating of grease over the pins and also on the gear teeth
side to help hold it together while installing other parts. Install
the center halves with the pins, and spacer. Once they're installed
line up the elongated hole with the round hole and use a punch or a
small screw driver to push the pins into the round hole. Then shove
the spring and cap through the slot into the channel to hold the
pin in place and give the locker the ability to unlock. Repeat this
for all 4 pins. Install the cross shaft, crass shaft lock pin and
slide the axle back in. Now you're ready to test her out and button
it up. Follow the manufacturers recommended test procedures to make
sure that everything works properly. (The ones that can be done
without driving the vehicle. Once that's done, you can replace the
cover (making sure to scrape all old gasket material away) and
replace the bolts and fill the oil.
(NOTE: this installation is in a non c-clip axle...c-clip installations will vary slightly refer to the manufacture's instructions)
Now take it for a drive and learn how to compensate for it's slight noticeable characteristics.
Tractech Inc.
11445 Stephens Drive,
P.O. Box 882 Warren,
Michigan 48090 U.S.A.
Ph: (810)759-3850
U.S.A.
Fx: (810)759-1645 U.S.A.
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