With any newly released motorcycle, there are bound to be a few glitches in production. Known for its refinement and attention to detail, there are a few minor errors with the CRF450. Below is a list of quick fixes to some minute problems, that may grow as this project evolves. (Please note that Off-Road.com is not responsible for any incorrect information; the tips below are to fix possible problems that may or may not occur). - The latest tip - It is recommended to remove the metal bracket that houses the fuel line between the tank and the carb. You should wrap it with heat wrap. The metal can heat up the fuel line and cause vapor lock when the engine gets warm. 1. Airbox Seal The 2002 CRFs and CRs have an improper seal between the airboot and the airbox itself. See the actual copy of the recall notice. •Page 1 •Page 2 We installed an aftermarket fix for this problem, which will be published for the month of March. 2. O-Ring chain If you intend to run an o-ring chain, the chain may rub the engine cases slightly. To avoid this, run a .060 thousandths valve spring shim behind the countershaft sprocket. The 1" id shims fit perfect. Another alternative is to install a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket. This may be an extreme fix, but also alleviates the chain buffer problem as shown in number 3 (possibly). It also a good idea to add the .060 shim when using the 14 tooth countershaft, just to be on the safe side. Make note that the valve spring shim is a home-made fix. This part can be found at most machine shops, or a select few auto parts stores. 3. Chain Buffer Pre-Mature Wear It has been known and stated by many that the chain buffer is wearing out in as few as 2 rides. There are a few possible fixes for this: 1. Install a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket. This may solve the problem of an o-ring chain rubbing on the engine cases also. 2. Make sure your race sag is set to the suggested 92-100mm. 3. Be sure to keep the chain tension to the suggested 1.25 to 1.5 inches of play. This may seem unconventional, but the new Honda's are designed to work best with this amount of chain slack. 4. Oil Capacity Bulletin The below bulletin explains how the oil system functions, and how much oil needs to be placed in both sides of the motor (transmission and engine) -Transmission oil level "In addition to having separate engine oil and transmission oil cavities, the 2002 CRF450R uses new transmission oil distribution/leveling technology. In order to reduce overall drag, the CRF450R designers incorporated slightly lower oil level in the clutch cavity than in the gearbox cavity. This is a performance enhancing design, but it can create some confusion when changing and checking the transmission oil level. There are three small oil catch basins on the clutch side of the right crankcase. These catch basins transfer oil that is slung from the primary gears into the gearbox cavity. As the engine runs and the oil level in the gearbox cavity rises, oil begins to spill back over into the clutch cavity through a transfer hold. The oil continues this circulation process, much like a pump, transferring back and forth between the two cavities. The overall transmission oil capacity is 670cc at disassembly and 590cc at draining. Because oil is added to the transmission throuth the filler cap on the right crankcase cover (clutch cover), you will only be able to add about 400cc before oil begins to run out of the check hold. Once the engine is started and the pumping process begins, oil will transfer in to the gearbox cavity, but the overall level will now be too low. The Owner's manual and Service Manual both state to start the engine, let it run for three minutes, shut it off, and let it sit for three minutes before checking and adding oil, but if you are unfamiliar with this technology an under-fill condition will result. the easiest and sure way to set the proper transmission oil level is to use a graduated measuring cup (ratio-rite) and add 590cc to the transmission after draining." 5. Check tightness of coolant hoses We have heard of a few instances where the coolant hoses slip off under operation. Simply check them over to be sure the clamps are tightened appropriately. 6. Carburetor The carb may be loose at the clamp between the engine and the boot. Again, just be sure to tighten the clamps. 7. Countershaft Sprocket Guard It is customary to remove the plastic case/countershaft sprocket guard. We suggest running a Case Saver from Fastway Performance. It may be of interest to mud riders to remove the countershaft sprocket guard. Unbolt the guard, press out the brass bushings and reinstall the case saver behind the bushings without the plastic guard. This will prevent any major mud accumulation at the countershaft. 8. Kouba Air/Fuel Screw This adjusting screw makes fine tuning the idle circuits easy. http://www.koubalink.com/fuelscrew.html 9. Oil Change This is a general tip that applies to all motorcycles: When changing the oil, once you think all the oil is drained, kick the bike over with the kill switch activated, and the drain plug removed. Beware of oil splattering beyond the oil drain pan (we suggest attaching an empty milk jug to the bike, in order to catch the excess oil.) 10. Spinning Inserts which hold Engine Guards In many cases, the threaded inserts which hold the front plastic engine guards in place are loose in the frame; as they were never seated to begin with. Below is an example of how to fix the problem (ed note: we did not have this problem with our CRF): 1. Use a long bolt, with a nut and washer on it, thread the bolt all the way in so that it hits the other side of the frame. This puts enough pressure on the nut-rivet so that it doesn't continue to spin. Next, tighten the nut down on the washer. The pressure re-seats the nut-rivet. If you have any questions, opinions or comments, let us know! Kevin Gorzny |
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