|
Destination:
|
Some of you may remember reading a little about the Burro Schmidt Tunnel in an article I wrote a few issues ago on Dove Springs. I briefly mentioned the Tunnel and promised I would dedicate a future article about this place. Well here it is. I first heard about the Burro Schmidt Tunnel about 10 years ago. Back then the story I heard sounded like this. There was an old lady that lived out in the desert in a small house with no running water or electricity. Next to her house was a tunnel that some guy spent all of his life digging by hand.
Being a teenager at the time I figured the guy who spent his life digging the tunnel wasn't a brain surgeon, and the old lady living there now must be closely related to him. After all, I wondered why anyone would want to live alone in the middle of the desert? The only part I thought was cool was hearing that the old lady had a "pet" rattlesnake in her house that you had to watch out for if you went inside. I also heard rumors that the place was haunted. It has been said that on some nights you can hear people laughing and talking like they are playing a game of cards. When you go and look where the voices are coming from there is nobody around...
I finally had my first experience at the tunnel about five years ago. Since then I have been up to the tunnel many times both to ride and to visit. My initial impressions of the place were wrong, it is a very interesting place with lots of history. I have still yet to see the "pet" rattlesnake but that doesn't mean it isn't there. About the only wild animal I have seen is a dried up rat that was stuck to the bottom of the old Ladies sofa we moved out. Very cool!
First and foremost, if you decide to venture out to the tunnel I highly recommend you find a map of the Mojave/Ridgecrest area. Many maps will show the "Schmidt Mine" and some even give GPS Coordinates. The Burro Schmidt Tunnel is located approximately 40 miles north of the town of Mojave in Southern California. The easiest way to get there from LA is to take the 5N to the 14N into Mojave. Drive through Mojave and make a right at the end of the town, staying on the 14N. At the right turn at the end of the town you will pass Stator Brothers, continue to follow the 14N about 32miles. You will pass the California City turnoff, Jawbone, RedRock, and Dove Springs. Just before mile 32 you will spot three big billboard signs on highway 14. When you reach the billboard signs slow down because you will make a quick right at a smaller sign that says "Burro Schmidt Tunnel".
From the turnoff it is about 9 miles off-road to the tunnel mostly on route EP15. It is a bit hard to find but there are signs along the way to help you. Most of the roads are packed dirt but you will be in a sand wash for a while. If you are in a 2wd vehicle make sure to keep your momentum in the sand. I have seen plenty of cars make it out there easily, but just remember not to stop in a sand wash. Bring plenty water and a flashlight. Good Luck.
There is a routine you follow when you arrive. If you actually find the place drive up next to the first house and you will see a sign that says "register here", or something like that. Honk, get out, make noise so you get the attention of the old lady Tonie Seger who lives inside the house. Don't go crazy and scare her or you might not leave in one piece. Your best bet is to either bring her a frozen cheesecake, poppyseed muffins, or coffeecakes. If you do this you just scored major points and will be escorted over to the cabin where Burro Schmidt used to live.
Once in the cabin Tonie will usually give you a little history of the about the tunnel. While you are inside Burro's old cabin take a look at the walls and surroundings. The walls are lined with old magazines and newspapers meant to act as insulation. There is also quite a bunch of other stuff in the cabin used by Burro during his mining days. Standing inside the cabin you get a feeling for what it must have been like living back in the Gold Rush days. No bathrooms, TVs, or internet access here, just the basics Burro used to survive on.
I don't want to ruin it for you so here are just a few facts. Tonie and the tunnel were on a Huell Howser TV show called California Gold. According to Ripley's Believe It or Not this is the World's longest handpicked tunnel. It took William Henry Burro Schmidt, almost 40 years to dig this tunnel by hand. He received the nickname Burro because he used two burros, Jack and Jenny, to haul his supplies from town up to the tunnel. Rumor has it that he didn't have a lot of money and used VERY short fuses on his dynamite. He would turn his mine cart sideways so he could jump behind it after lighting the fuse. One time he didn't quite make it behind the cart before the dynamite went off and ended up in the hospital for a while. That is all I am telling you. You have to ask Tonie if you want to find out more.
After Tonie finishes with her history lesson feel free to ask her a little bit about herself. She isn't just some old lady that has a boring life in the desert. She has served in the war and traveled the world. She has kids of her own, and has met lots of interesting people over her lifetime. Your first impression of Tonie as a typical frail old lady will be shattered very quickly. Every time I see her she seems to have a new story or adventure to tell me about. And don't be surprised if she starts using sign language on you. She used to get visited every year by a group of deaf kids. She has developed a habit of talking and signing at the same time. Either learn it before you go or deal with it.
Once you learn all about the place, and about Tonie, it is time to actually visit the tunnel. Tell Tonie you are going to go up to the tunnel and walk through. Continue up the road until you reach the tunnel and then park your dirtbike/vehicle. Take out that flashlight I told you to bring earlier and head for the entrance of the tunnel. If you are visiting on a big weekend you may be surrounded by other visitors. If you are really lucky you may even see the famous Mine Cart, named "Schmidt #2".
The "Schmidt #2" is a weird contraption built by a regular visitor named Rodger, AKA Elf Man. If you happen to meet Rodger you will know why his nickname is Elf Man. I was unlucky enough to have been at the tunnel when Rodger had brought the "Schmidt #2" for the first run. Not only did I help unload the beast onto the tracks, but I was also the guinea pig for its initial passenger run. Picture a short Elf Man wedged in the driver's seat and me on the trailer holding on for life. I remember it was well after midnight when we finally fired up old "Schmidt #2" and went flying through the tunnel on the first run. Things were looking great, the headlight was shinning bright and the engine noise was echoing throughout the tunnel. About half way through the tunnel at warp speed I heard a smash and then I couldn't see anything. Our headlight had made contact with the tunnel wall, a bit of poor engineering on Rodger's part. My grip became firmer and all I could concentrate on was keeping my head low and hoping Elf Man could pilot the Mine Cart in the dark. No sweat, since Rodger helps Santa fly the sleigh every Christmas this was a piece of cake for him. We made it back to the entrance in one piece and the "Schmidt #2" was ready for more.
If you don't see the Mine Cart make sure you listen before you take a step inside. The last thing you want is to meet Elf Man head on. When you enter the tunnel, be sure to watch your head and your step. There are railroad tracks going through the tunnel so your best bet is to either straddle them or walk in the middle. Once you get started it takes about 15 minutes to walk to the other side. If you did your math that means plan on about 45 minutes for a total trip...the extra 15 minutes is for resting and checking out the great view on the exit of other side.
Once at the other end of the tunnel watch your head as you come out. You are rewarded with a great view of the Kohen Dry Lake. The road below will be the Randsburg/Garlock road. Follow the road left and you end up in Randsburg. Follow it right and it runs into highway 14 near Jawbone. At night you can see the lights from the nearby cities. After you enjoy the view and get a rest you have a couple options for the way back. You can either go back through the tunnel or go up and around the tunnel. It is shorter if you go up and around but more work for those whiners. Whatever you do don't ride your motorcycles through the tunnel or on the trail over the top. Tonie doesn't like this and there is a desert full of other trails in the area to explore. Thanks.
Big holiday weekends are a great time to check the place out. These weekends bring in people from all over the world wanting to check out the tunnel. With the people come some pretty spectacular vehicles. One of the more interesting vehicles I have seen was this restored military truck packed full of tourists. Another plus to coming out on a big weekend is you have a chance to either ask for directions or just follow other folks out to the tunnel.
That about wraps up the tour. If you would like more information I have been told you can order the California Gold tape on the tunnel. You can also contact the ranger station and ask if they can send you a map of the surrounding trails. They frequently patrol the area and check in on Tonie so I am sure they can give you some info. Just remember this place is not your everyday museum. This is Tonie's house so please respect the area. If you look around don't touch or move anything out of its place. By keeping things as they are hopefully this place will continue to be open to the public. My only last words of advice are to make sure to bring lots of water and one of the above mentioned food items for Tonie.