SOLID AXLE (78-79) DANA 44 REBUILD
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You can click on any image to download the FULL SIZE picture. To perform this rebuild, you should have a shop manual that lists torque specifications, a full size floor jack, two jack stands (3 ton minimum) , and a hub bearing nut tool. It would also be helpful to have a dial indicator with magnetic base and gear pattern grease.
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Remove wheels and place front axle on jackstands. I like jacking under radius arm mounts, as front spring is directly over this point. -
Note:
Ensure you have a clean piece of cardboard to place removed parts on. This cardboard will need to be moved later to get all the parts out of the way of debris falling off truck when you hammer at axle flange mounts.The figure below shows all the parts you will remove before rotor will come off.
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Using appropriate size (I have seen two different sizes) allen socket/wrench, remove six allen head bolts that hold hub in. Use rubber mallet to lightly tap hub on top until it comes off. -
I have seen 3 different hub locking mechanism's on 78-79 DANA 44 front axles. Two have a flat looking ring that hub allen bolts screw into.
The aluminum hub locking mechanism makes it particularly hard to get at spring clip, but it is possible. After removing spring clip, remove flat ring for all steel setups. Aluminum casting will stay put for now. Warning:
Removing axle shaft snap ring may allow spring to force inside locking mechanism out of hub. (Usually on the floor is where it will get all dirty)
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Using snap ring tool, remove snap ring on axle shaft. It may be necessary to push axle shaft towards outward side of vehicle. Shaft can be pushed outward from behind rotor, at steering universal joint. Remove inner and outer locking mechanism, being careful of spring pressure. Mechanism will consist of one of these; -
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Inner and outer star wheel. (This mechanism hangs up easily and may not engage when hub is locked, if gummed up). -
Inner and outer parts that ride on each other, but engage with dog teeth facing side to side with respect to vehicle. (Best Setup, IMHO)
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Inner metal star with aluminum outer part. (I now understand why some people break hubs, junk!!) One small phillips screw will need to be removed if aluminum casting is seen. With aluminum casting, spring is much smaller and presses against steel star located inside alum casting. Spring on all metal versions is much larger and creates a much larger force.
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Again using hub bearing tool, remove inner hub bearing nut.
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Rotor/hub assembly can now be removed. Outer bearing will be loose, but inner bearing will be held in by grease seal. Place rotor on two 2 x 4's with hub facing up. Use a hardwood dowel to punch bearing and grease seal out the bottom. Wipe off grease on axle flange and ensure bearing surfaces are not damaged. -
Inspect both bearings and races for wear, looseness and pitting. If you have never replaced bearings/races, now would be a good time. -
Get all parts moved to as far away from the truck as possible. Debris will be falling off fenders/frame during next removal process. Parts are covered with grease and will pick up this debris. -
Remove 5 nuts that hold axle flange/caliper bracket to steering knuckle. -
Remove all front differential cover bolts, except for the top most bolt, only loosen this bolt 2-3 revolutions. Pry open cover at bottom with screwdriver. Leave screwdriver in-between case and housing until fluid drains. Leaving cover on keeps dirt out of differential housing while fluid is draining. I let fluid drain at least an hour. -
Tape an old spoon to a really long screwdriver or rod. Use this contraption to scoop out any built up mud/gunk inside bottom of axle tubes. -
Ensure all dirt/gunk that has fallen into differential from pulling out seals is cleaned. Wipe out inside of axle tube where seal is to be re-installed. -
Ensure axle housing is clean of all debris and gasket maker is scraped off housing. Check ring gear, pinion gear and differential bearings/races for wear/damage. Install differential, ensuring bearing races are inserted equally. Fit will be very tight. Allowing one bearing race to be inserted deeper than the other will cock differential making insertion virtually impossible. When you have differential almost seated, you can tap on outer part of each race with a rubber hammer. Tap alternately on each side to ensure equal fit of races. -
Note:
Rotate driveshaft and ensure ring gear and differential rotate freely. If binding is felt, differential bearing races are probably not seated correctly. -
Apply light bead of gasket maker and install differential cover. I let gasket maker dry for 1 day before filling with oil. -
Install knuckle and ball joints, torque to specification. Install tie rod ends, torque to specification. Install cotter pins in upper ball joints and tie rod ends. -
Install axle flanges and caliper brackets on knuckles. Torque the 5 nuts to specification. -
Grease bearings, install inner bearing and install grease seal. Grease seal can be lightly tapped in with hammer. I use marine/4wd grease. Some marine grease is made from a different base than most greases and can not be mixed. If you use this grease, make sure all old grease is removed from all bearings/surfaces. -
Install rotor/hub. Install outer bearing. Install inner bearing nut. Torque to 50 ft.-lbs. And back off 1/4 turn. Re-tighten nut by hand only. The inner bearing nut may have a small pin that fits into small ring with holes. This pin must face outward. Install ring with holes, ensuring groove in axle flange lines up with tab on ring and that pin on inner bearing nut lines up with one of the holes in ring. Inner bearing hub nut may have to be adjusted slightly to accomplish this. Install outer bearing nut (locknut) and torque to specification. -
Install spring and inner/outer hub locking mechanisms. Ensure these are clean from gunk and rust. Also ensure that they are heavily greased. I use marine/4wd grease for these assemblies. Install snap ring on end of axle, axle shaft may again have to be pushed from back as in step 5. Install flat steel round plate (if equipped) and large spring clip. -
Inspect hub O-ring seals. One is around outer hub, one is in between plastic center and metal part of hub. Outer seal must be bought in packs of 8 from FORD. Replace hub and tighten allen bolts to spec. -
Install caliper. Grease contact points between caliper and bracket. Hammer in caliper shims, making note of orientation. Apply Never-Seize on caliper bolt. -
Ensure hubs lock/unlock easily and rotors rotate fairly easy. Install tires and torque to specification. -
If oil comes out of axle tube after installation is complete, it may be residual oil left in tube. Give it a couple days and see what happens.
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