Most factory 4wd trucks are sold with "open" differentials. The
differential is a device inside the axles that allows one wheel to
turn faster than the other. An "open" differential is good
for driving on the street but on the trail because it directs
engine power to the wheel with the least traction. Note the
picture above, without locking differentials it would difficult to
drive forward (up the hill) as the right front and left rear wheel
would spin free and the other two wheels would not receive
any power at all. Replacing the stock differential with a locking
unit solves this problem and keeps all 4 wheels turning together.
Some
trucks are available with a Limited Slip Differential (LSD). These
units help move power form the wheel that is spinning to the one
that is not spinning by means of internal clutches. LDS's are great
in street and occasional off road situations but do not provide
100% lock-up that results from using a true locker.
My
rear Detroit locker has performed very well over the years and I
have been very happy with it, so I choose to purchase another unit
for the front axle. Other options for lockers include ARB,
Lockright, and Toyota's own electric locker (this will be featured
in an upcoming article). When choosing a locker for your
truck take time to talk to others about the advantages and
disadvantages of lockers they are using.
When my front
Detroit locker was installed I snapped a few pictures and took
notes on how the locker was installed. I already had the 4:88
V6 gears put in several weeks previously so what follows is only
the information on the locker installation on a 8" Toyota
differential. The specifications below are for
1987-1995 Toyota V6 8" differentials.
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After removing the axles shafts from the tubes
and unbolting the drive shaft the 3rd member unbolts and comes out
easily.
Left picture is of the new
Detroit locker itself. The Detroit installs in place of the
stock spider gears and carrier. |
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Use a bearing puller to remove side
bearings. Remove adjusters locks, end cap bolts, carrier and
ring gear bolts. |
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A little tap with a brass hammer will help
remove a stubborn ring gear. Once removed the ring gear can
be mounted onto the Detroit locker. Red Lockright is used
here to prevent the bolts from vibrating loose. |
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Torque ring bolts to 71 ft/lb.
An optional step that can be done to limit the
side bearings from spinning on the locker is using a little red
Locktight on the race. Be careful not to get Locktight in the
bearings. |
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Use a hammer and driver to tap bearings onto
locker. |
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Using a stone to resurface housing (to prevent
oil leaks). Be sure to clean out the inside of the housing before
putting the ring gear assemble back in. You want to get all
those little metal bits out. |
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Rotate the side gears to to adjust backlash.
Check backlash with a dial indicator. Should be set to
.0051-.0071 in. play. |
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Torque end caps down to 58 ft/lbs.
Test frictional drag with a torque
meter
It should be 10-15 in/lbs with used bearing or
16.5-20.6 in/lbs with new ones. |
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Adjuster lock bolts need to be reinstalled and
torqued to 9 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the
differential the same way it came out. You can use silicon gasket
goope or a factory housing gasket to seal the 3rd member in the
axle. |
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The locker installation took just about one
hour to do, not including removing and replacing the 3rd member in
the axle.
Note: All Pro Off
Road provided install labor and technical information for this
article.
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Contact Information:
Jon
Bundrant
All Pro Off
Road
581 North Palm
B3
Hemet CA,
92543
909-658-7077
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