Guns blazed. Tempers raged. Greed reigned. Justice was served.
Suddenly, everything fell silent. That, friends, is the nutshell
story of Belleville, California.
Belle Van Dusen was born to the town blacksmith and his wife in
1860, and the boom town was named in her honor. Belle's birthplace
had been an empty valley until the winter of 1859, when prospector
William F. Holcomb discovered the valley and its gold while
tracking a grizzly bear he had shot. Bellies full of bear meat,
Holcomb and his companions began plucking as much gold as possible
before the word got out.
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Volunteers make it happen! These guys were on hand
with maps, advice, and information for motorized trail users. Four
wheels, two wheels, four- or two-stroke, these volunteers provided
services that Federal funding did not. Also on hand was a genuine
U.S. Forest Service Ranger complete with a ticket book, which was
used to cite those without spark arrestors. If you meet a
volunteer, smile! Remember, they're enthusiasts just like
you.
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The Willow Creek fire of 1999 scorched thousands of
acres near Lake Arrowhead as it burned for solid two weeks. Pine
forested vistas became blackened knolls as the flames licked all
combustibles clean. Fortunately, Holcomb Valley was spared from the
inferno. Although fire is a natural component of the forest's life
cycle, the Willow Creek fire's origin may have been human-caused.
Reforestation efforts are underway, evidenced by protective screens
around new seedlings next to the sign.
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Life in the mining boomtown of Belleville was a
rough deal. Bad weather, hard manual labor, accidents, and fights
over claims combined to make life fast, tough, and short for
Belleville's population. This simple monument is known only as
Wilbur's Grave. Who was Wilbur? Where did he come from? Did he
leave a family behind? Only the tall pines and rocks know the
answers. Admittedly rudimentary, Wilbur's grave is unique among the
burial sites around Belleville: it's marked.
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This stately Juniper has more tales to tell than
most. This is Hangman's Tree. Frontier justice was quick and
unflinching. Sentenced offenders were strung from the lower
branches to face their common fate. After the sentence had been
carried out, the branch was cut to get the body down. Quite a few
branches are missing!
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The gold in Holcomb valley made easy pickings for the
prospectors. This "free gold"-placer deposits brought in by flowing
water-was simple to extract. Gold pans and sluice boxes were all
the tools needed. The word inevitably got out, and almost overnight
the once-vacant valley had a population of nearly 1500!
This large population put Belleville on the map, and
the settlement nearly became the San Bernardino county seat, losing
out to the city of San Bernardino by a pittance. Then the placer
gold ran out.
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Interpretive signs next to Pygmy Cabin tell the
tale of this now-empty meadow. Rocks and soils under the meadow
prevent percolation, so the meadow stays wet until spring snowmelt
evaporates during the summer. Gold washed from nearby veins
trickled into the meadow, creating easy placer pickings for Holcomb
Valley's first prospectors. Billy Holcomb and Ben Chouteau, began
prospecting the valley in early 1860. The boom town of Belleville
sprang up shortly thereafter. Less than a year later, the
easy-to-find placer gold was largely sifted through. Fortune
seekers then began to hammer into nearby rock in search of
gold-bearing ore. The payoffs were disappointing and the effort
monumental. By 1864 the once-booming Belleville was bust, fading
into history as the meadow returned to its former quiet self.
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This quiet knoll was once
the site of Two Gun Bill's Saloon. Since absolutely no remnants of
the building are to be found, imagination must take over where
artifacts leave off. No doubt that typical boom town debauchery was
standard fare here. Many saloon patrons must have found their way
over to Hangman's Tree and its short rope.
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Sometimes timing is everything. The owner of this
ultra-clean Bronco found its seller in a financial bind with time
running out. He picked up the vintage Pony for a song and half a
dance. The price? Less than what you'd pay for a rusted-out early
'80's Toyota pickup. Jealous? Oh, yeah!
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Modern trail prospectors can strike their own brand
of gold with a run on the John Bull trail. John Bull, also known as
Forest Service Route 3N10, winds along a ridge 8,000 feet above sea
level. Its rock gardens are by no means the stuff of RCAA
competitions, but they're still tough enough to require driving
finesse. Those adverse to body damage should stay away. Sheet metal
damage is not guaranteed on John Bull, but it's not a big surprise,
either. Though most 'wheelers traverse 3N10 from West to East, our
two-truck wheeling party picked up the trail at the East end. This
sign shows the way off of route 3N02 to John Bull.
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With the placer gold gone, the search was on to find
the "mother lode." This "mother lode" was the vein inside nearby
bedrock from whence the placer gold was washed. Prospecting for
gold through bedrock was a tougher game, requiring stamp mills to
crush extracted ore. Stamp mills were powered by steam engines,
which had to be brought in over roads which had to be built. The
work was exhausting and the payoffs disappointing. Winter weather
was often severe. By 1864 the town named after toddler Belle had
faded into the history books. The "mother lode" was never found.
There's still gold in them thar hills!
Today, interpretive signs mark various sites around
the valley. Visitors can pick up a map and directions at the Big
Bear Ranger Station. Once in the Valley, interpretive signs fill
visitors in on the life and times of Holcomb Valley during the gold
rush.
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Dan Barcroft eases his '71 Blazer through a tight
spot on the John Bull connector trail. Dan is among the lucky ones
who don't have to wheel their daily drivers. The '71 sports a
number of rust spots and dents, which add confidence on narrow,
rocky routes. Why? The body is already damaged, so let the fun
begin!
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This sign introduces John Bull proper. The Forest
Service has a trail rating system that advises off-roaders of the
conditions ahead. Jagged Black Diamonds warn of tough going,
whether you're astride a dirt bike or quad, or behind the wheel of
a 4x4. Is the trail really as tough as advertised? There's only one
way to find out…
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These Jeepers weren't expecting a big yellow Blazer
to be the day's last trail obstacle. The Swamper-shod '71's
steering felt suspiciously loose going in to the Bull's first rock
garden. Closer inspection revealed that a repair was in order. With
the stranded Bow Tie blocking the trail, the "Jeep Things" found a
bypass route reserved for nimble, narrow rigs. Sometimes, wider
isn't better.
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Dan puts his 60-inch Hi-Lift into action as friend
Ben Henslin looks on. Even with all the mechanical trouble located
on the driver's side frame rail, lifting the hood seemed requisite
for repair work. What can we say-we're creatures of habit!
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A good imagination is needed, as little remains of
the mining sites or the town. Photographs of mining in Holcomb
Valley are virtually nonexistent. A lone cabin, nicknamed Pygmy
Cabin, stood until the 1980's. After burning down, it was rebuilt
and is there today.
Modern-day trail riders can strike a rich adventure
with a visit to Holcomb Valley and a run on the nearby John Bull
Trail. John Bull, a.k.a. Forest Service Route 3N10, winds along an
8,000-foot ridge above the Valley, overlooking the Mojave Desert.
Four wheelers should be prepared to negotiate five miles of mild to
moderate rock gardens. Budding rock crawlers, listen up! John Bull
is a perfect trail on which to commence your 'crawling career. Body
damage is not guaranteed, but comes as no surprise on John Bull.
Hard core? No. Fun and challenging? Definitely.
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Aha! With two of four steering box attachment bolts
AWOL, it's no wonder the steering felt a little loose! The remedy
was straightforward: simply run two new bolts into the holes, and
be merrily on our way. The hitch in the plan was that there were no
spare bolts to be found. Other locations on the vehicle were
searched for bolts that could be "borrowed". No luck. In the end,
the author had to throttle his '81 Toyota to Big Bear City as fast
as four cylinders could take him. With closing time looming near, a
parts store provided the badly-needed bolts, and the parts guys
locked the door as soon as said bolts had been purchased. Unplanned
excitement is what it's all about, folks!
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With the missing bolts back in place, Dan's Blazer
was ready to tackle the rest of John Bull's twists and turns. One
didn't have to look far to spot the next repair project: a crack
was busy making its way up the 30-year-old frame rail. We lacked
any sort of welding equipment, and the crack was a fairly
manageable size, so we motored on.
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Yours truly crawls through the site of the "Blazer
roadblock." A sudden shower slimed up the rocks and made careful
line choices and throttle control essential components of a
successful run. We got a taste of Tellico-style 'wheeling without
leaving the state.
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This smallish rock would normally be
blip-up-and-over, but a coating of raindrops turned its surface to
Crisco. The recipe for success was a little more momentum coupled
with tire placement directly over the center of the rock. We gained
a new respect for our Southeastern 'wheeling brethren. We're truly
spoiled with traction out West.
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Would we bypass the Rubicon to trail ride on John
Bull? Would we skip Tellico and Moab? Nope. The 'wheeling is
tougher and more abundant in those premium spots. Just the same, no
self-respecting off-roader should visit Big Bear without checking
out once-bustling Belleville and making a run on John Bull.
Off-roaders are made of the same tough stuff that
coursed through the veins of the prospectors. We value
self-sufficiency, ingenuity, and adventure. If you meet a ghost in
Holcomb Valley, fear not. He'll more than likely nod his ghostly
head in approval.
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Even though the '71's body is dented through and
through, the Bestop is brand new and unscathed. Dan did his utmost
to keep it that way. Full sized vehicles will wish they could suck
in their sheet metal in a few tight spots.
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Dan eases over yet another boulder. His
first-generation Chevy Blazer sports a few tricks under its
tattered exterior. The original 350 V-8 was exchanged for a more
potent 400 mill, which sends power downstream to the stock Turbo
350 tranny and legendary NP205 'case. The stock axles have been
ditched in favor of a ¾-ton Dana 44 front and GM 14-bolt
full-floating rear, which received disc brakes during the install.
The axles came with 4.56 gears stuffed in the pumpkins, which
provide a much better crawling speed than the original 3.73 ratio.
The rear driveshaft was upgraded with a custom CV-equipped unit
from High Angle Driveline. Since the rear disc brakes have no
provision for a parking brake, Dan selected a transfer case-mounted
unit, also from High Angle. Tires are 36-inch Super Swampers.
Future mods include longer, softer front spring packs, crossover
steering, and a front Dana 60.
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Motoring through the twilight. The front '44
survived another thrashing, towing the line between the 400 small
block and the Swampers. To reduce the chance of breakage, Dan vows
to keep his front differential open until he swaps in a Dana 60.
The mighty 14-bolt out back has welded differential gears.
Crossover steering will accompany a locked Dana 60 onto the
rig.
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This rocky threshold between the pines seemed to
beg for a photo-op, so we obliged. The '81 'Yota is fairly stock,
but has a few key mods to make it more trail-worthy. The front axle
uses a Lock-Right to find traction, while a limited slip does duty
out back. The 33-inch BFG's are turned by 4.88 gears. All-Pro Off
Road's heavy duty tie rod holds the front wheels together. An
engine oil cooler helps dissipate heat from the 22r motor, which
inhales through a K&N filter, and exhales through a Downey
header. After the stock tranny's third failure, a W-56HD was
rebuilt by Marlin Crawler and swapped in its place. Since the later
tranny is longer than the '81 version, a Front Range Off-Road
crossmember and skidplate combo locate and protect the aluminum
transmission and transfer case housings. Future mods? Lots of
'em!
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Money doesn't grow on trees, but apparently shoes
do. This gnarled evergreen near Baldwin Lake was ripe for the
picking.
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In addition to boulder fields, the John Bull trail
offers spectacular views as it winds along an 8,000-foot ridge.
Southern California is noted for its diverse landscape. Below the
greenery of the San Bernardino Mountains lies the parched Mojave
Desert.
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Additional
Information
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San Bernardino National Forest Home
Page
www.fs.fed.us/r5/sanbernardino/