DO IT YOURSELF - 4x4 SHOCK SWAPPING TIPS AND TRICKS

Jul. 01, 2004 By Rick Sieman

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July 2004

DO IT YOURSELF

SHOCK SWAPPING TIPS AND TRICKS

BEFORE YOU START, READ THIS

BY RICK SIEMAN

Do It Yourself

By Fidel Gonzales WARNING FOR THE INTELLIGENCE IMPAIRED! New driveway mechanics should memorize this: The single most important thing you should know about changing shocks is how to keep the stupid truck from falling off the jack and squashing you like a bug. We cannot over-emphasize this. Often when you're removing shocks, you have to tug or hammer on them. If your 4,600-pound truck is three feet up in the air balanced on the end of a cheap bumper jack, you could very quickly find yourself with a face-full of frame rails. This is not conducive to a happy smile.

Safety is job one before you crawl under a truck. Use a strong jack - preferably a floor model-and put blocks on the tires.

So, first off, place your vehicle on level, firm ground. Even the best of jacks can, and will, sink into sand or soft ground. Next, get some hefty blocks of wood (I prefer a 4x4-inch chunk), and place them under both sides of the tires on the end of the vehicle you leave on the ground. We assume you'll be raising and working on one end at a time. A hefty red brick works fine, too. Here's something most people never think about, but it can happen. Make sure the shock is cool to the touch before you grab it. Shocks can reach close to 300 degrees F under heavy off-roading conditions, often enough to blister the paint or any stickers on the body of the shock. Let's say you want to change the front shocks first. Put the parking brake on, put the trans in PARK, or in low gear if it's a manual. Place the jack firmly under the frame or a cross-member, and raise the entire front end into the air. Next, put some stout jack-stands under the frame rail just in case the jack fails. Make damn sure that the jackstands are straight and set square against
the frame rails.

Always use strong jackstands. The ones seen here will hold 10,000 pounds each and cost about $40 a pair.

Remove the wheels and you'll get a clear look at the shocks. There are several types of mounts: (1) A standard eye-end is the most common. It's just a loop on the end of the shock that will accept a bolt. (2) A threaded end is simply the straight end of the shaft with some threads on the mounting area. The end goes through a hole and is bolted in place. (3) The Tend (or clevis) is a piece of metal attached to the end of the shock shaft that usually bolts to a flat surface with a pair of bolts.

Remove the tire to gain access to the shocks. It's a pain in the neck to try to work around the wheels.

Once you inspect the type of mounting you have, pick a selection of tools to match the nuts and bolts. It's a good idea to organize your work. I usually have a plastic tray for my tools and another smaller one to handle all the nuts, bolts, spacers and washers I'm working with. A simple thing like this makes a lot of difference in ease of work. If the shock nuts look rusty, spray them with a quality penetrating oil, tap them lightly with a hammer, and give them another liberal spray. The tapping sets up a vibration that lets the penetrating oil get into the tight spots.

Three basic shocks mounts: round end, threaded end and T-end.

Wipe everything clean with a rag before you start spinning wrenches. There's no sense it trying to twist an oily nut loose and have the tool slip. Before you start to remove a shock, get a second jack (a small floor jack works best) and take the weight off the shock by jacking up the A-arm (or I- beam or straight axle, depending on your vehicle) an inch or so. This way, when you unbolt the shock, nothing will flop downward. Do not use the jack on the brake disc. It can turn easily and the best jack will slip off. Also, the brake disc is cast and you could crack or distort it under a heavy load.

Penetrating oil is a must for removing rusty bolts.

Now, remove the shock bolts (or attaching hardware) one end at a time,
paying attention to any spacers or washers that were used. Unless your new shocks have special instructions with them, they must be mounted in exactly the same fashion as they were originally. If the shock is hard to remove, gentle prying with a large, flat-bladed
screwdriver will normally do the trick. If everything is rusted badly in place, it might be time for more penetrating oil and some whacking with a hammer. It you want to save the shock you're removing, never hit the shaft or the body of the shock with anything. It can put the action in a bind.

Always put a jack under the A-arm (or axle, or I-beam, etc.) to keep it from flopping down when the shock is removed.

I've removed some shocks that had badly corroded threaded ends, so much so that the holding nut couldn't be removed, and the shaft had to be hack-sawed off. This is not uncommon to find on old vehicles or trucks that spend some time backing a trailer down a boat ramp into salt water. SHOCK DOS AND DON'TS

Unless you have a specific reason always replace the shock with one of the same length and shock travel.
It you're increasing suspension travel with some sort of kit, you must use a longer shock to handle the longer travel.
Buy quality shocks with a good reputation-it pays off over the long haul. These dual Ranchos mounted on the front of a Bronco made a dramatic improvement in the ride, both off and on road.

Always us the shock length and travel specified by the suspension kit maker.
It you plan to run a longer set of coil springs, you must run longer shocks to take advantage of the increased travel.
Never clamp down on a new shock shaft with pliers or vice grips. This will gouge the surface and quickly lead to shock seal damage and failure.
Never re-use old bushings or rubber/vinyl spacers. Always install the fresh ones that come with the new shocks.
If you have trouble installing bushings in a shock eye, lightly lube the rubber/vinyl bushing with liquid soap. Oil or grease can damage some types of bushings, and will quickly attract dust, grit and dirt.
Always use a lock washer and a good thread-locking compound on any nuts. I also like to use a cotter pin if possible.
If your shocks don't come with new bolts, check your old ones. If they're scored or marred in any way, discard them. Always use at least a Grade 5 or superior bolt for shocks. I use a Grade 8 on my personal trucks, and an F9-11 superbolt on my race truck.
Boots or no boots? Read our thoughts in the article, then decide.

Don't over-shock your truck. Most stock rigs will handle normal on- and off-roading conditions with a pair of shocks on each wheel. Many a good ride has been ruined by running three or four shocks per wheel.
If you can afford it, install a quality set of adjustable shocks, like the Rancho 9000s. They do make a difference in performance, and as the shock wears over the years, you can increase the damping to make up for part wear and shock fluid degradation.
Never overtighten a shock mounting. This can put the shock in bind and prevent it from pivoting while it goes through its stroke.
If your shock won't quite fit into the mounting ears, it's okay to take a little bit of material off the bushing material Don't bend the mounting ears out, as this will weaken and possibly crack the metal.
Normally, its easier to remove the bottom shock bolt first. This will let you wiggle the shock around and possibly provide easier clearance to get a tool in. Some top shock mounts are in really tight spots and hard to get to.
Typical shock location on the rear end of a truck.

Double check all your nuts and bolts after you're done, especially if you have any extra pieces left over. Often, a shock kit will come with a drawing of where the bushings go in relation to the spacers and such. Follow the instructions exactly.
When you first drive your rig with the new shocks, you might he disappointed initially, because the ride might feel too stiff. This is normal, especially on shocks with big shafts. It will take some time for them to seat in the seals and scrapers before they work smoothly. Good old Rancho RS 5000s take about 100 miles of driving before they settle in and you learn to appreciate them.
Adjustable shocks can-and should-be set lighter during break-in, then firmed up later on. Do not pre-judge a shock before break-in.
Some shocks are angled inboard at the top. This is claimed to lend an anti-sway quality to the ride.

Most shocks come with boots. I personally do not use boots,
even though they look great. They tend to trap moisture and dirt
inside, and have even seen sections of a boot get pinched between the shock cap and shaft, and get sucked into the seal. There are those who disagree with my thoughts on this, so you make the call.
Don't put any stickers on your shocks. I know it looks cool, and the manufacturers love to see their name all over the place, but a large sticker will actually make the shock body run hotter and reduce its ability to cool off.

Here's a typical dual rear shock setup.

If you buy shocks with remote reservoirs like the racing guys run,
always put the hose clamps near the ends of the reservoirs, not the middle, as this will tighten the barrel of the reservoir and make the floating piston move sluggish. Bladder-type reservoirs do not have this problem.

Always mount reservoirs away from hot areas, and use quality stainless-steel hose clamps.

There you have it. Now go and shock the world. By Fidel Gonzales