In your Jeep Creep questions, please list your first and last names, your hometown, and your state/province/country, so that we can publish that information here. If you don’t provide this information, we may not be able to publish your question and answer. Don’t forget to be as complete as possible with the description of your Jeep and its problems, too.

One Jeep Recall

10V-200
Chrysler is recalling certain model year 2010 Chrysler 300, Dodge Challenger, Charger, Jeep Commander, Grand Cherokee and Dodge Ram vehicles. These vehicles may have been built with a wireless ignition node (WIN) module exhibiting a binding condition of the solenoid latch. The result of the defect could lead to a condition where the key may be removed from the ignition switch (WIN module) prior to placing the shifter in park. This could result in the potential for unintended vehicle movement and could increase the risk of a crash. Dealers will inspect and replace the WIN module free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin during July 2010. Owners may contact Chrysler at (800) 853-1403. Chrysler’s recall campaign number is K08.

Trail Tips

In April 2010, I instituted a new feature. I call it Trail Tips, and I’ll be including up to three tips each month shuffled in amongst the questions and answers. I’ll be numbering them sequentially so if you keep a file on the tips, you’ll know right away if you’re missing any.

Trail Tip #9—Last month I told you to buy a Boy Scout Manual. This month I’m adding to that suggestion because I found copies of the original edition of the Boy Scout Manual published in 1911. I found these on Amazon.com (where you may also find the current edition), and I also find it very interesting to compare the two manuals after 100 years of experience.

Cherokee Carriers

I’m putting in new gears for the front and rear differentials of my ‘88 Cherokee. How many ft-lbs do I need to torque the carrier bolts?
K. Putt
Minersville, PA

You’ll want to tighten both carriers to 55-ft-lb in an X-pattern using three or four increments to work up to the 55. Use red Loctite on all the bolts, and I hope you have a good torque wrench – this is important. If you’re doing such technical work on your Cherokee, you should also buy a good shop manual for it.

Squealing Mudder

I got stuck in the mud yesterday. I had to get pulled out. When driving home I noticed a squealing noise. I have cleaned the wheels thoroughly. I am still getting the squealing and it gets worse with speed. Could this just be mud in the wheels or does it sound like something more severe?
Ron
Rutherford, NJ

Not to worry. You have mud and debris in the brakes. Since you didn’t mention what model Jeep you have, I’m assuming you have drums because they’re more likely to squeal like you describe (discs usually clean themselves off pretty quickly). I suggest you pull the drums and hose everything off. Be sure to allow them to dry before driving again. And don’t do it when the brakes are hot, the sudden wash of cold water could damage hot brake parts.

Trail Tip #10—Let your air pressure down at a trailhead. I’m sure you all know to do this already, but there may be one or two readers out there who might not know about it yet. Lower air pressure allows the tire to widen out, creating a bigger footprint and more floatation. The tire will also grip the surface better for improved traction.

Rubi Lift

I just bought a 2010 Rubicon 4-door, and I want to get a lift kit. Need any advice on the best one out there. I am currently looking at getting the Rubicon Express 4.5 Long Arm. What are the pros & cons on this selection?
Kenny
Garland, TX

Kenny, I had a Rubicon Express 6-inch lift on an ‘05 TJ that I owned for a while and found nothing wrong with it at all. However, I have a Rancho lift on my ‘07 Rubicon Unlimited—see the “Polishing a Rubi” on Off-Road.Com—and I much prefer the Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks to the RE shocks.

Clunking 4WD

I bought a Jeep Wrangler Sahara ‘09 about a year ago. I have only had two opportunities to put it into 4-wheel drive. When I am turning I feel like the gears are not matching up. You know... the outer wheel is rotating faster than the inner wheel. I know this has been resolved in other 4x4’s because I have driven several other vehicles and never felt it. Does Jeep just use the old system or do I need to have it checked out? Thanks!!!
Backpack Chick
Arlington, VA

It sounds like you’re trying to use the 4WD while on hard pavement. This is a NO-NO! Only use 4WD while on soft terrain, in snow, etc., when additional traction is needed. If you attempt to use it on pavement, you could easily blow the front differential.

Trail Tip #11—When you let your air pressure down, you must be more careful when driving over rocks because sidewalls are more vulnerable. Also, remember than when fording a stream, wet tires can be sliced more easily by sharp rocks. In addition, if you have the brakes on when a tire hits a rock, it’s more liable to be cut. Hit the brakes before the obstacle, then get off the brakes and allow the tire to roll over the obstacle.

T-Case Dilemma

I am considering installing a Ford T-18 in my ‘77 CJ5 304 and 3-speed. I know that an adaptor is needed to mate the T-18 to the Jeep Dana 20. Could I buy a Ford Dana 20, and will this mate up to my Ford T-18 and also line up with rear differential? Trying to eliminate the use of an adaptor.
TA Johnston
Hayden, ID

No. Actually, you’ll need two adapters; one to mate the engine to the tranny, and another to mate the tranny to the T-case.

Starting Issues

I recently purchased a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (127K). Good condition overall. The former owner told me about a starting issue he had with the vehicle. At times, without warning, the Jeep would not start. No sound at all. He said he had to put the transmission into neutral, and then the engine would turn over. This has happened to me twice. Both times the engine fired right up, but this should not be. Any suggestions?
M. Buzzi
Ford City, PA

The problem is in the shifting linkage. You’re not making full contact with the safety lock-out switch in Park, that’s why you need to shift to Neutral. It may be a linkage adjustment issue or a clean contact issue; you’ll have to discover that for yourself.

Trail Tip #12—Always carry a good air compressor to refill the tires. Plus, carry a tire patching kit, such as a Safety Seal Tire Repair Kit, to plug holes. If you trail ride where there are cacti, carry a can of tire sealant (this works best with multiple tiny cactus spine punctures).

Twin-Stick T-Case

Just bought a CJ-7 with a Dana 300 T-case and Currie twin stick shifting conversion kit. How do I get front wheel low only? I have no illustration or instructions. I mean, how do I shift to front wheel drive only? And what else can I do beside low 2wd, low, and high 4wd? And how do I do it?
John Muccianti
Fresno, CA

You can find the shift pattern at Currie’s website. However, it should be the same as my CJ7’s twin stick.
Both sticks all the way forward = low range 4WD
Both sticks all the way back = high range 4WD
Left stick in middle; right stick back = high range 2WD rear
Left stick forward; right stick in middle = low range 2WD forward

Found Flattie

I am buying an older, hopefully a flat fender, Jeep to use as an air show ground ops vehicle. I’ve found a 1950 CJ3A and the owner says the VIN is GB140511. How might I verify if that is the correct VIN/serial number and the Jeep is what it is supposed to be? It’s a 1950 CJ3A flattie. So tell me what I need to do for safety reasons. I think that the first order is to add seat belts and a roll bar. Any suggestions on vendors? I’m glad to hear any advice you have for me. This is my first Jeep.
Bill Foraker
Flattie Papa

MBs and CJ2a Jeeps have fold-down, fold-out, square-framed, 2-piece windshield. CJ3a Jeeps have a single-piece windshield and the frame is slightly more rounded at the upper corners. Both CJ models have the same flat-head four banger, 3-spd transmission, T-case, 5.38:1 gears, and under-driver’s-seat 10-gal. gas tank. CJ3Bs have a much higher (about 4 inches higher) hood to accommodate the overhead valve engine. If you can send me a picture, I can tell you what model it is.

Congratulations, Bill! It’s an easy one for the seat belts. For what you’re planning on using it for, I’d suggest just a short trip to a local “Pick Your Part” yard. Just try to find lap belts only. That’s all you’ll need for most cases. Secondly, do a Google search for Jeep roll bars and pick one you like. Back in the days when I drove a flattie, we didn’t have the Internet but we did have a lot of roll bar vendors--not so much any more.

The third step will be much more difficult; however, I strongly suggest it. Modernize your steering. OEM steering has a Pitman arm going from the steering box (located just forward of the firewall) to a very long drag link, which then connects to what is called a bell crank (mounted to the forward crossmember). The end of the Pitman arm is shaped like a ball and this ball is held to the drag link by two spring-loaded cups in a sleeve. This sleeve must be kept full of grease to keep the friction between the cups and the ball to an absolute minimum. If these cups become dry, they could crystallize and break, releasing all tension on the ball. If this happens, which it did to me on mine while I was camping in the Sierra Nevada, the sleeve drops off the ball and you’re only moving the Pitman arm with the steering wheel--the Jeep goes where it wants to. But I’m not done. From the bell crank to the steering knuckles at the front wheels, you have two separate tie rods (one to each side). There is no single tie rod connecting both front wheels as there is in the more modern design. So what happens when you load weight into the back of the Jeep—like a pilot or three sitting on the fenders or leaning against the tailgate—is the front of the Jeep lifts. Since there are two tie rods connected to the bell crank, when the front end goes up, the two front wheels toe in. The higher the lift, the greater the toe in, the less steering control you have. The first thing you should do is convert this arrangement to a single tie rod to one side—usually the left—and then installing a single tie rod between the wheels. That’s the easiest, but I’d suggest replacing the entire steering system with a Saginaw system. To see what I’m talking about, examine a CJ from the ‘60s, ‘70s, or ‘80s. You need to see one of these to understand my suggestions. If you can find one in a junkyard, it would be even simpler because you could just buy the complete system.

Lastly, if you’re going to drive it on the street, you should upgrade the brakes. OEM brakes are approximately 8 inches in diameter with shoes approximately 1 inch wide. You could go crazy and install discs all around, or just try to find an upgrade kit that’ll give you 10”x2” brakes. Again, back in the day this was simple but I don’t think it is any longer.

Trail Tip Teaser—Keep an eye out for next month’s tips. I’m going to tell you some methods for reading the tire tracks on the trail.

As usual, each month, I’m shouting out a huge THANK YOU to Paul Schupp at Rock Lizard 4x4 in Kingman, Arizona, for his invaluable assistance in answering many of the Jeep Creep questions.