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Previous Jeep Creep Q&As:

November 2010

October 2010

September, 2010

One Jeep Recall
10V-549
Chrysler is recalling certain model year 2008 Jeep Liberty vehicles. The vehicles are equipped with windshield wiper motors that contain excess adhesive that may allow for water intrusion, which could result in intermittent and eventually inoperative windshield wiper operation. A failing or inoperative windshield wiper system will reduce a driver’s visibility which could result in a crash. Dealers will replace the windshield wiper motor free of charge. The safety recall began on December 1, 2010. Owners may contact Chrysler at (800) 853-1403.

Mudhead
Hey, Jeep Creep. First off, thanks for all the help. I’ve read through several years of your Q&A and learned tons but I need some wisdom. My daily driver is a ‘97 TJ, manual 5-speed, fuel injected 4.0L I6 with air, K&N air intake, Borla header, Haynes manual, and I have a couple of problems with the Jeep.

The first is that the defroster will not blow air out the top of the dash onto the windshield in any fan setting except low. When I turn the fan on high I can hear something pop inside the heater someplace and the air stops blowing upward. Everything else works fine. I get heat and air and the blowers work fine out of the bottom and front; just nothing out the top. Will I have to pull the steering column and the instrument panel to get at the heater core or is there something else I can try? Is there a way to disable/remove the heater so I can drive around without it while I get it fixed?

The other problem is that the RPM sometimes go way low when I let off the gas at stop signs. It acts like it wants to stall but it does not and the problem is intermittent about once a month. It will drop to about 500 RPM and sit there (normally 1,100 RPM). I do not have a check engine light and the buzzer that is supposed to sound when RPM go low under load never sounds. It is also hard to start and seems like the battery is giving out. I crank it once and nothing. I wait a second and crank again and it starts right up. I also just noticed liquid (water, maybe, it does not smell like fuel) on the ground behind my tailpipe. Should I wait for the check engine light before I hook up a pressure tester to my fuel rail or do I replace the throttle position sensor? Would the air intake have anything to do with it (I just cleaned it)? Could the problem be elsewhere, maybe the crank sensor or a bad O2 sensor or a leaky injector?

I have just enough tools to get me in trouble. Who makes a good torque wrench?
Jeremiah

Defroster problem: Your duct tube to the defroster vents is loose, and you’ll need to reconnect it to its outlet in the heater. When the blower is on low, air moves through it. When the blower is on high, it’s blown off its connection and that’s why you’re not getting any benefit from it. I’d suggest you remove the passenger seat to give you some more room and take a peek under the dash to see if you can reconnect the hose before you remove the heater.

RPM problem: 500 RPM is just slightly low but not troubling. 1100 RPM is way too high (I can just picture you trying to creep down a steep trail in low gear/low range with 1100 RPM trying to hurry you up!). The water behind the tailpipe is normal; it’s condensation that collects in the pipe when it cools down. What you should do is take it to a good mechanic for a complete tune-up. This should correct everything, and if one or more of the sensors has gone bad, the tech will find it.

Torque wrench: Craftsman, Mac, Proto, Snap-on. Just make sure you buy one with a half-inch drive (although you might also want a 1/4-inch drive, too) and has selectable torque settings, not the type with a pointer to show the amount of torque. Stay away from Harbor Freight, though; I had to return one I bought there after almost ruining some projects with it.

Timing is Everything
I have a 1997 Wrangler SE 2.5 4-cyl. I am installing a new timing chain and gears. When looking in the Haynes repair manual at the marks for a ‘97, it does not line up with the camshaft sprocket timing mark or the crankshaft sprocket for the ‘97 year. Looking at the ‘96 and counting the pins, 20 pins, it appears that it is a 1996 vehicle. The VIN on the dash and engine match up with a V for the 10th number/letter which makes it a 1997. Is it possible that it is a 1996 engine that was factory installed in the 1997 vehicle? Why won’t it line up? I hope that you can help. It’s freezing here in Illinois, and I’ve been working on this for days.
Randy

Randy, I doubt very much that Jeep would put a ’96 engine in a ’97 vehicle. You really need to read the manual and not just look at the pictures.

Not Too Hot
I currently have a 1976 CJ5 that is in desperate need of a new heating system. I really hate the factory setup, wondering if you have any suggestions for an aftermarket setup.
Jerry

Jerry, the old AMC Jeeps did have some problems with the OEM heater—I had a ‘74—so I’d try Vintage Air. They offer many different designs of heaters and air conditioning units for custom and classic vehicles.

Anniversary Jeep
I have a 2001 60th anniversary Jeep Wrangler. I bought it five years ago with 9,000 miles on it and I still haven’t turned 40,000. Is the 60th anniversary model a collector’s item? I would like to give it to my son when he turns 16, so I am not interested in selling currently.
Tyler Smurr

Sounds like a good idea to give it to your son; I’ve built a few off-road vehicles for my kids. I don’t think it’s a collectable outside of your own family.

Rio Grande Ringing
Good day, I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande 2.5L. I have a 2½-inch spring lift kit and I’m running 30x9.5x15 Bridgestone tires. It has 160,000 miles and has been well taken care of. Engine runs great, Transmission runs smooth and in all gears. Transfer case works fine. All fluids are up to date. I have been having this noise that is getting worse. While driving for awhile above 40 mph I start to hear a metallic ringing/whirring noise from under the Jeep. It will get louder and softer depending on the speed and load. Between 40-50 mph it will be really loud and almost like if you run your finger on the edge of a crystal glass and you get that harmonic resonance. Between 50-65 mph the noise is there but not as loud. It will only do it while acceleration and goes away when I let off the gas. I have tried running in 4x4 at about 45 mph and the high pitch noise will almost go away but is still there but not loud. When I go back into 4x2 the noise is back loud again. I use Lucas gear treatment in differentials and transmission. All oils are clean and new. The U-joints were replaced about 40,000 miles ago with maintenance-free ones. I am thinking that they might be going bad on me and will replace them but was wondering if it was the transfer case?
Donovan Jordan

Replace all your driveshafts’ U-joints with new, greaseable U-joints and your noise should go away. However, it could be a ring and pinion noise also. If the noise doesn’t go away with the new U-joints, have a mechanic examine your rear ring and pinion.

Jeep Jamborees?
My wife and I have had our 2000 Jeep for 4 years now and we love it. We are very respectful of the land and are willing help anyone at anytime. I am an ex-police officer who was hurt on the job and forced to retire. My wife is an RN manager at the St. Louis VA hospital. We have three boys serving in the Marine Corps and one in the US Army. We live in Roxana, Il, and would love to go on a ride or at least get information on upcoming events.
Jim Corzine

I suggest looking into Jeep Jamborees (www.jeepjamboreeusa.com). They are held all over the USA and are a great deal of fun. You’ll love them!

Critical Alignment
I have a ‘93 Jeep Cherokee and the distributor mounting plate broke. I replaced the whole distributor but it won’t start. I have #1 piston TDC and the rotor at #1 on the cap. I didn’t have any problems before.
Michael Gonzalez

Michael, you need to get a good repair manual and follow its instructions. The distributor’s lineup is very critical.

Four Banger
I have an ‘88 Wrangler 4-cyl. I want to lift it 2.5 inches but a mechanic told me it has no power (only 4 cyl.) if I want to go off-road. Is that true? If not, what size of tires should I get? What do you think?
Rubenz

Go ahead and lift it 2-1/2”—it won’t be a problem. Stick to 33-inch tires or shorter with the 4-banger.

Four Banger Fuel Specs
I need the fuel pressure specs for a 1992 2.5-liter fuel injected Jeep engine.
William Dorminy

31 psi with the vacuum hose on the regulator.

Limping 4-Liter
We are having the exact same problem with our ‘98 4.0 Jeep Wrangler as Laurie was. We also bought a fuel pump. We are going to replace the ignition coil tomorrow and see what happens. Yeah, when it starts to sputter after driving awhile, when I turn the Jeep off and let it cool a few minutes, it starts and drives well until this happens again. We are also wondering if the gas tank needs to be replaced.
Lucille

You’re doing the right things; replace the fuel tank only if it is damaged.

As usual, each month, I’m shouting out a huge THANK YOU to Paul Schupp at Rock Lizard 4x4 in Kingman, Arizona, for his invaluable assistance in answering many of the Jeep Creep questions.