Installing Jeep Hardtop Hoist in Garage

Oct. 11, 2016 By Jim Brightly, KF7SCT
One last hill to climb before turning off the air conditioning and removing the hardtop.

We do things differently here in Arizona. Most folks have spring cleaning after the house or car has been closed up all winter long so they need airing out and cleaning up. In Arizona, because of the heat, our Jeeps are closed up all summer long so we have fall cleaning.

In my case, I like to pull off the hardtop when the summer monsoons wrap up—usually around the middle of September—and I can turn off the A/C and adjust the heater for the cooler evenings. I really like to go lidless—as my kids call, topless—and if it weren’t so difficult with an LJ, I’d also have the windshield lying on the hood during trail rides.

In this case, though, with the Arizona daytime sun still being a factor, I’m preparing the Jeep for a Bestop Bikini Top, so the hardtop needs to come off. Up to this time, it’s always taken the assistance of a couple friends to remove the top, since Jeep hardtops weigh in excess of 100 pounds. From now on, with the hoist from Hoist Lifts, that’s a thing of the past. Hereafter, my wife and I will be able to remove and reinstall the Jeep’s hardtop from Rally Tops.

As always, make sure all the parts are included in the package and that the instructions are there as well.

As you’ll see when you visit the website (www.hoistlifts.com/), Hoist Lifts, in addition to the hand-crank design shown here, also offers an electric hoist and a hand hoist without the locking crank. Hoist Lifts will assist you in determining which model will best fit your needs, which in turn also depends on the layout of your garage.

Mike Barnes, a fellow club member, assisted me with the install of the Hoist Lifts kit.

According to Hoist Lifts, the Jeep Wrangler Brake Winch Hard Top Lift, which is the kit installed here, fits all models of Wrangler, regardless of wheelbase dimensions. It sells for $199, and is designed to support your hard top from the center section to the center bottom rear section. The brake winch is mounted on a sidewall stud and then you route the brake winch wire up the wall to the supplied J-hooks and pulleys. The cable is routed across the ceiling through the pulleys that connect to the straps that cradle your Jeep’s hardtop to lift it up. And, back down of course. Your Jeep Wrangler hardtop stores just inches from the top of the ceiling. The kit is packaged and assembled in the USA.

Once you’ve determined where the primary pulley will be located, you next have to determine where to attach the brake winch mounting bracket.

Since my adjacent garage wall surface is covered with a permanently mounted pegboard, I picked a cabinet sidewall for the brake winch bracket. I had to reinforce the cabinet’s attachment in order to be assured that the cabinet would hold the top in place indefinitely.

It’s a fairly simple install. You have to find the ceiling joists, and the ceiling joists have to be strong enough to hold the pulley on which the top will be stored. See the photos and captions for all the information you need for the install.

Mike used an electronic stud finder but the drywall thickness and heavy insulation thwarted its efforts, so we used the old-fashioned way—drill and hope!

Because of the garage’s configuration and the locations of its light fixtures, we were forced put the primary pulley hook farther away from the sidewall than I wanted.

We used an unusual tool to screw the hooks into the 30-year-old wooden joists after drilling a pilot hole. It’s called a locking adjustable wrench and it’s from Stanley. You adjust it like a crescent wrench then you lock it into place like vice grips. It’s a heck of a trail tool, and I just wish someone made a larger one than this 10-inch model.

The second pulley hook needs to be located between the brake winch and the primary pulley, fairly straight up from the winch. Since it takes the initial tension when you’re lifting the top off the Jeep, it also needs to be secure.

The pulley pins have a slight key near the head that matches a slot in the pulley frame.

Make sure the pulley pins are slotted into their matching notches or you won’t be able to slide the keeper clip into place.

Everything is in place; both hooks and pulleys, crank, and wire cable.

Remove all the top’s bolts and unclip the front windshield snaps, and then pull the Jeep into place beneath the primary pulley. Route the straps from the doors to the rear hatch. We X’ed the straps both under the top and above the top.

Initially, we used the included D-ring on the straps but we needed more room beneath the top for storage so we ran the straps through the hook on the wire.

The storage isn’t pretty, but it’s off the Jeep and secure. We park our camping trailer beneath the hardtop during the winter as we won’t be reinstalling it until next spring.

Source List
Hoist Lifts
http://www.hoistlifts.com/


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