I did everything wrong when I was preparing my 2005 Rubicon Unlimited for its trip to North Las Vegas Maaco for a new paint treatment. About the only thing I did correctly was leave the factory orange paint in place and remove all the easily removed hardware (headlight bezels, mirrors, taillights, etc.). My mistakes prompted me to write this article. If you know the correct way to prep your Jeep prior to painting, it could save you significant money and time.
Why did I choose Maaco? It was a simple choice. And, although the, “Uh oh! Better call Maaco!” tag line is a catchy one, it wasn’t the reason either. Each shop is a privately owned franchise, but there are thousands of franchises, located all over the U.S., so I can get the paint easily matched wherever I might find myself after scraping a tree or sliding off a boulder. Plus, Maaco’s reputation—much like Denny’s coffee—is that you’ll get excellent service and a very good paint job in any shop anywhere. For an avid off-roader, Maaco’s paint treatment is well-worth the money, regardless of the level chosen.
While Rustoleum is arguably just about the best paint you can apply to raw metal to protect it from oxidation (rust), it’s just about the worst paint to use for prepping. Actually, according to Becky at North Las Vegas Maaco, any “rattle can paint” is the wrong paint to use—even primer. Before finding out that Rustoleum wasn’t going to be compatible with Maaco’s urethane, in order to protect the raw metal from rusting, I sprayed all the non-painted products from TNT Customs—side panels, flat fenders, rock rails, and some chassis components—with a Rustoleum orange that was very close the Jeep Impact Orange. Many of the chassis components I painted Rustoleum semi-gloss black.
If the paint used in prepping has the wrong chemical makeup, the professionally applied paint—in the case of my Rubicon Unlimited, urethane—won’t adhere to the base paint. Becky said it was actually better just to leave the metal raw.
If you have the use of an air compressor, a spray gun, and a clean area in which to use them—and know how to use them—you can buy compatible primer (check with the shop that’ll be doing the final painting on what’s compatible) from several auto parts stores (Carquest, for instance); however, you’ll need several different grit sandpaper, hardener, thinner, stirring sticks, mixing cans, filters, breathing masks, etc., in order to apply the primer properly. In other words, you may want to leave it to the professionals.
However, if you still want to do your own paint prepping… read on.
I’m not going to get into all the nitty-gritty about how to pound out all the dents, or how to fill in all the scratches, or how to sand the Jeep’s surfaces, or how to mask the glass and other hardware. The professionals will want to do all those things themselves, and there are entire books on that subject that cover it better than I could ever do.
If you insist on applying the primer to your Jeep, then ask the shop that will be doing the painting what primer to use so that it will be compatible with the final surface. If it’s raw metal—never been painted—you’ll have to clean the entire surface completely with denatured alcohol. Use clean shop towels or blue paper shop towels. Either way, you’ll need a lot of them. If the surface has already been painted, you’ll still have to clean it but not quite as well.
Once the surface is clean, apply the primer with very light coats. Don’t try and apply a thick cover coat all at once, you’ll only produce runs and a surface that’s called “orange peel”. Spray it lightly with several coats. Remove any hardware that you can; i.e., side mirrors, lights, license plate, etc. If you’re going to trailer the Jeep to the painter, you can remove more hardware. Just be safe and if you’re going to drive it, don’t remove anything you’ll need on the street. This’ll save you money, and it’ll save the shop time.
Source:
Maaco
http://www.maaco.com/