Funny how things happen.  A reader named Lee Curry asked for some tips on fixing dented pipes.  I thought I had already done that article some years back, but when I did a search on ORC for it, there was nothing to be found.  So I checked out my vast library and found just what was need.  So Lee, here you are.

Even though modern bikes have high pipes, the head pipe and belly are especially vulnerable to dents in a simple fall, or if you ride over a fallen bike.  Then, the head pipe can get squashed almost flat.

Low pipes on vintage bikes leave you with mixed feelings. Sure, it's nice to have the pipe out of the way, allowing plenty of room for a spacious air box and never having to worry about burning your legs, but it sure isn't any fun when those pipes get all crunched up - which is most of the time. We don't care how well your low pipe is tucked in, that hunk of tubing will get more than its share of dings, dents and reshaping.

Generally, if the head pipe and first cone are in good shape, the output of the engine won't suffer too much. The belly of the pipe and the second cone can take some pretty ugly dents with out affecting performance too much

The tips shown here are easy and effective ways to get that pipe back to its normal contours. Some people we know like to heat a dent up and "blow" the pipe back to its original shape with the aid of an air compressor, but we'd suggest that you avoid this. The possibilities of getting splattered with hot metal are too great.

The final hint. If you keep dinging up the same area repeatedly, then by all means put some additional protection over the area. Small pieces of angle iron make for good protection, especially for the area where the head pipe joins the first cone. Flat strap metal is good for the belly, second cone and joining the stinger to the final cone.

You can also "read" pipe damages to detect other faults in your bike. If the head pipe separates from the first cone for no apparent reason, you might have a cracked frame or loose motor mounts. If the pipe breaks at the rear hanger, you could have loose or worn hardware in the swingarm pivot. Check it out carefully.

Here you have the more or less normal dents any pipe tends to accumulate.	Mark some lines on the opposite side of the pipe that correspond with the dent.
Drill evenly spaced holes the length of the dent. Try not to make them too big; just enough to allow a rigid piece of metal to get in.	Tap a blunt instrument (we have an old broken screwdriver with ground down ends) against the dent while it's laying solidly against the floor. Tap lightly and evenly through all of the holes, feeling for high spots and making them level.
Done properly, the metal will assume its original shape.	The holes must then be filled in. Run a bead around the hole until it keeps getting smaller and smaller.
If you don't want to drill holes through your pipe, then try the attach-and-pry method. Braze an old bolt in the middle of the ding and attach a nut to the threads. Then heat the entire outer area with the largest tip you have.	Pull gently when the metal is cherry red and keep working from the opposite side of the heat. When the dent is out, torch off the bolt and file everything smooth.
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