Project Yamaha TTR230 - Part 2 - Dirt bike chains and sprockets
A SIMPLE MATTER OF GEARING - Sidewinder Sprockets and Chain
Here's the good stuff we bolted on |
We wondered at the dolts who thought that a 12 tooth item would make the bike better in the woods and tighter trails. Stock, first gear on the Honda 230 is a stump puller. It’s virtually unusable, especially when trying to roll the throttle on gently. You end up with a lurch, rather than smooth acceleration.
We wondered if the Yamaha TTR230 would respond in much the same way. We ordered a 14 and 15 tooth item from Sidewinder Sprockets, as well as a quality O-ring Krause chain and a hardened aluminum rear sprocket to replace the boat anchor heavy steel one.
First off, we tried a 14 tooth. The cover on the countershaft is a complex deal, with little bolts holding everything in place. While we were at it, the stock chain got replaced, as well as the rear sprocket, which was steel and weighed a ton.
Here's our target - a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket |
The Yamaha pulled the 14 so easily that we only rode it a short distance before heading back to the garage and installing the 15. That 15 barely fit in there and it was necessary to leave the c/s cover off. Quite frankly, I see no need for a countershaft sprocket cover in the first place.
The bike felt great with the l5 tooth c/s sprocket. In fact, the Yamaha ought to come stock with it. With the 13, you can just about walk alongside the Yamaha. Ridiculous. In fact, you can start out easily in third gear with the stock gearing. Using the 15, you can still start out in second gear most of the time without abusing the clutch. Third gear was now useable over a wide range, from about 10 to 40 miles per hour as a guesstimate. In top gear, the bike positively rips. All things considered, the Yamaha is at least as fast as the Honda, and we haven’t even modified the jetting, or opened up the airbox and the exhaust yet.
All things considered, the very first thing any TTR230 ought to do is change that gearing. And while you’re at it, get rid of that horribly heavy steel rear sprocket. The Yamaha, as delivered, weighs a lot more than the Honda. Getting rid of the lard on the rear wheel not only is a big weight reduction, but it’s unsprung weight, as well.
First you have to remove the sprocket cover |
Take off the bolts holding the c-shaft cover in place |
You have to remove the shifter |
The naked sprocket |
The stock chain must be removed |
Remove the stock chain |
Chain removed a flat plate with two small bolts holds the sprocket in place |
Put the bike gear to keep the sprocket from turning when you loosen the bolts |
The stock sprocket can now be removed |
We installed the 14 sprocket first |
Then the 15 got the nod |
Some care must be taken when putting the plate on the sprocket Move it in and out until you center the sprocket |
To install the new sprocket the rear wheel must first be removed |
With the wheel removed place the sprocket side up |
Loosen and remove the six allen headed bolts |
The Krause aluminum sprocket weighs about a third as much as the stock steel item |
Put the new sprocket in place and use some blue Loctite on the nuts |
Done All six bolts tightened |
We put the Krause O-ring chain on and it was a bit long |
A chain breaker was used to shorten the chain |
When you shorten a chain put the adjusters in the center and make sure that you have two small ends so that a master link will install properly |
Chain installed |
SOURCES:
SIDEWINDER SPROCKETS
630-513-1000
www.sidewindersprockets.com
Front sprockets ... carbon steel $39.99 .... tool steel $49.99 ... Titanium $69.99
Rear heat-treated aircraft alloy ... stock size $89.99 ... Titanium $129.99
520 pitch "Smart Chain" with saturated O-rings ... $129.99
520 pitch "Smart Chain" master links ... $5.99